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Lower Decadent - Asian Wall
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Trip to Iraq T 

Self Abuse 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: D. Bingham
Page Views: 684
Submitted By: Brian Milhaupt on Oct 10, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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After the crux.

Description 

A nice route with protection where you need it. Much more enjoyable than clipping a bolt by a naturally protectable feature, which is how this route would be bolted today. The crux is at the start and the vertically challenged could find this route PG-13 reaching the first bolt at 15 feet, not to mention considerably harder getting off the ground. Once the petina feature is reached however, the climbing becomes much easier to the bolt. The most enjoyable part of this route is finding the incut holds almost completely invisible from below. Shame to the hangdogger that ticked all the holds a couple weeks ago.

Location 

This route is at the south end of the Breadloaves formation. It faces west on the Asia wall and starts in a grassy field directly across from the firepit of campsite #58.

Protection 

Three bolts and a chain anchor. Bring a single rack of cams from green alien to a 2" piece. Nice pods present themselves midway between the first two bolts. A third clip up high rounds out the frugal but well bolted route.


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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 10, 2007

One of my favorite routes at the City. You'll feel a sweet sense of accomplishment at the chains. This one felt like an old-school Joshua Tree route to me (where I learned, and love, to climb).

If your comfortable at the grade, get on this one! It's safe, but you'll earn each bolt/placement.
By john bald
Jun 15, 2010

can you say Pink Tri-Cam !