Seeking some info on ice climbings in the Katterskill area.

I ice climbed there back in the late 80's - Devil's Tombstone area as I recall - and there was a handly 'informal' route guidebook that was had online that I was able to print out and use. Sadly - I no longer have it. The Rock & Snow tells me that they expect a new supply of 'An Ice Climber's Guide to the Catskill Mountains' available again this Fall - and was wondering what anyone can tell me about what the climbing situation is down there.

Is ice climbing still allowed, etc? Any permit(s) required now, etc?

You are speaking of Devils Kitchen. Yes climbing is still very much allowed no permit needed (as far as I know of, I didnt have one when i was there last season, but do your own research on that!) There are even some hard mixed lines which are bolted.

This link should give you a good sample of routes and information. Hope this helps. The book you speak of is kinda vague for this area if I remember correctly. I own it, but would have to look to remember.

Last season wasnt that great. Much of it was out of condition when I was there. Heres hoping for a better season this year.

catskillice.com/devils-kitchen/


Chris

If you climbed back in the 80's, the Devil's Kitchen you are referring to is probably the Black Chasm in the new book, or is it Hellhole (I don't really know anymore). The Devil's Tomstone area on the other hand is the Stoney Clove East & West climbing area in the guide book.

Fortunately in the Catskill areas, most commonly climbed areas are on public land, access or permit isn't an issue. Parking on the other hand can be a bit crowded.

To add to the responses so far - since you said Kaaterskill Falls in your subject - yes, you can ice climb on Kaaterskill Falls, as well as the other flows in that general ravine. The lower drop of KF is perhaps the easiest thing in there, at grade 3 (typically). The main falls rarely comes in and is scary as hell even when it does (think crashing tons of ice inside a hollow and generally airy tube, with lousy screws the norm). Much more attractive are the grade 4 flows that spill from the rim of the ravine. These are all described in the guidebook ("Ice Climber's Guide to the Catskill Mountains" by Marty Molitoris). In general the K. Falls area gets much less climber traffic than The Black Chasm (formerly the Devil's Kitchen), Devil's Kitchen (formerly the Hell Hole...confused yet?), and Stoney Clove. But being in there at sunset in late Feb or early March is really a treat.

Photo attached of the main falls.

I opted not to chance it this day. Submitted By: Gunkiemike on Sep 15, 2012

Nice ice.

Great info! Thanks guys!

: )