2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This route climbs the arete right of Dementia. Great position and terrific movement are marred by a slightly contrived start on the arete. The best opening climbs straight up the arete with your chest at the bolts. It starts with the left hand in the Dementia corner for the first move or two.
Start 10 feet right of the Dementia/Malign start. Climb past 2 bolts and angle up and left to the roof at the base of the Dementia corner. Climb straight up the arete. Going straight up at the last bolt is slopey 12c (desperate in summer). Cutting right for a move at the second to last bolt and then moving back left again past the last bolt lowers the grade to easy 5.11.
8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. A #2 and/or #2.5 Friend may be useful to protect the moves to the 3rd bolt.
My friend and I went climbing at this wall yesterday. We had fun, it was nice that we could set up a top rope on these hard climbs. There were some holds that had chalk marks on them, I think they were marking the holds that were loose. I put more marks on a lot of other holds that I think are going easy to break soon. Watch out, there are lots of holds that are loose at this wall, hopefully other people will mark with chalk all of the loose holds so people don't get hurt.
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Jul 13, 2004 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c
Formerly a TR problem, now leadable. Does that make these retrobolts?
Chris, Thrill of the Chaise has only two bolts in it and didn't encroach on any other route. I didn't know if it was a trad route and I don't really care. It seems like your bolts retro it even more.... Now, while climbing Thrill, instead of only having those two bolts for the route, one could also clip all of your bolts. Maybe this is why you called it Seeing Double....
I would have to agree with the above comments. This route doubles the bolt count on any other route at the crag. The lower potion of the route is easily lead on trad gear 3ft to the left. The 3rd bolt can be clipped from Dementia. The climbing looks interesting, but it probably should not have been bolted with 8 bolts.
A historical note, since I was involved in the FA of Cheers with Rick Leitner and Kent Lugbill. We didn't knowingly retrobolt Thrill - we had no idea that the route had ever been done. We also did not drill the anchor bolts; these were apparently added later by local guides.
I've always enjoyed "Thrill". I had no idea it was a trad route, but I usually augment the route with a few cams (it's pretty exciting if you only bring quickdraws). This new route seems a bit close to "Thrill", kind of like some of the grid bolting at Sport Park. I've noticed that most of the bolts at Happy Hour see very little traffic, as most people there choose to do the trad routes instead. I will most likely enjoy the route, all the same.
Tried to toprope this line and kept running into holds on "Thrill of the Chaise". I wonder how many ascents a year this route sees. Bolts 2.5 feet away diagonally from bolts on "Thrill" kind of just cluttered up a good trad/mixed area. Can't wait to lead Dementia with some bolts clipped though.