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BETA PHOTO: Seduction Line is easily identified by the promine...
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
Several hundred yards to the right of Desert Gold is a beautiful streak of red varnish - easily visible as far away as the parking area. Hidden at the left edge of this streak is Seduction Line which, in my opinion, is the best 5.12- crack in Red Rocks.
Approach this route by passing underneath it via a chossy ledge system, then scrambling up as for Hand Bone, and finally working back left on a precarious, loose belay ledge to the start of the corner. There is room to belay here, but little in the way of an anchor so make sure the leader gets some good gear in early.
Begin just left of the corner by climbing easily up wedged flakes for 10 to 25' before transitioning back right into the corner - there are several opportunities to do this. Solid jams and liebacks lead to a resting stem box feature, then its game on: Lieback up the gradually narrowing crack until it is barely tips size (0 to 00 TCU's)... A few subtle features for the feet make stemming possible, but be prepared for a desperate 20' battle to the anchors.
This route currently has one of the worst anchors I've seen in Red Rocks in a long time: Two very rusty quarter inchers. Beware. I put new quicklinks and rings on them, but these really should be replaced.
Double set from 00 TCU to 1 Camalot. Extra 0.4 Camalots. A 70m rope allows rapping from the anchor past the belay ledge and on down to the approach ledge below.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Mar 9, 2012
Directly below the start of the route in your description Josh is a choss pile of a chimney. In the chimney is a bolt... you could clip the bolt and continue straight up Seduction Line with the belayer on the ledge that is the approach trail to Handbone, etc. Just some added info for future ascents. I'm not sure if the bolt really does too much for the climber but... well, I'm sure people climbing at the grade 12- wouldn't feel too uncomfortable climbing a 5.7 chimney as an approach.
From: Las Vegas
Jan 27, 2014
Thanks to a donation from the ASCA and in conjunction with the LVCLC the anchor has now been replaced with 3 1/2"x 1/2" SS bolts and FIXE hangers with double rap rings.
By Pat H
From: Berkeley, CA
Apr 21, 2014