|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA:||Ron Halka, John Cotter, May 2nd 1983|
|Submitted By:||Steve Rowen on Mar 10, 2012|
|Comments on Security||Add Comment|
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By Ian Dibbs
Aug 31, 2014
|Short but tough, 25 ft, may need a little trad to go with bolts. about a 10.b|
From: Ottawa, On
Sep 18, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Just sent this route today, and it's totally classic. Much taller than the 25ft suggested here, more like 50-55.
Gear Beta : 2 QD's, a .5 BD X4 (for the pod before the first bolt) and a .2 BD X4 in a small crack out left (if you want to protect the topout moves).
Definitely some sections where a fall would be best avoided (clipping the first bolt) ; also, there is huge whipper potential towards the top if you blow the slightly easier but sustained face climbing. That would a be a really big fall, but safe (probably?).
This might be 5.11-, (V2 after the first bolt?) but 5.10d is also fair.
This is what the 2008 Climbing around Ottawa topo has to say :
«Recently, a key hold broke down to about half it's original size, which makes the route considerably harder.»