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Many well bolted high quality limestone climbs with grades from 5.0 to 5.14b, a shortish approach and easterly aspect all contribute to this being the most popular crag at Orpierre. Routes range from steep and juggy to slabby and technical. It is also one of the older sectors so some routes may be a little polished and it is not uncommon to find an enhanced hold on a couple of the routes(from the days when chipping was à la mode). It can also be a little crowded on the weekends, but there are pleny of routes to choose from. Also keep in mind that the best times to visit are spring and fall, as the summer tends to be too hot to climb. It should be noted that the village of Orpierre (going against most european standards) has erected a concrete bathroom at the parking lot for visiting climbers. There is also a fountain at the parking for your drinking pleasure.
Coming from the east, take a right up the small road that goes directly through the tiny center of Orpierre. Drive past the small bar on the left (take note for post climb) the road leads directly to the parking lot after about 100 meters. Take the well marked trail just above the parking to the cliff. The walk takes about 10 minutes.
4 Total Routes
Featured Route For Secteur Chateau
Les ailes du désir 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Europe : France : ... : Secteur Chateau
A really fun route...steep and gymnastic route the grade. One of the most popular climbs in the sector. A bouldery start (1st bolt easily pre-clipped)leads to gymnastic climbing up giant horizontal breaks, there is even a 'sit down' rest at one point. Continue climbing the horizontals, traversing ever so slightly to the right, to a pumpy crux near the top. A couple more thin face moves land you at the anchor. ...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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