Many well bolted high quality limestone climbs with grades from 5.0 to 5.14b, a shortish approach and easterly aspect all contribute to this being the most popular crag at Orpierre. Routes range from steep and juggy to slabby and technical. It is also one of the older sectors so some routes may be a little polished and it is not uncommon to find an enhanced hold on a couple of the routes(from the days when chipping was à la mode). It can also be a little crowded on the weekends, but there are pleny of routes to choose from. Also keep in mind that the best times to visit are spring and fall, as the summer tends to be too hot to climb. It should be noted that the village of Orpierre (going against most european standards) has erected a concrete bathroom at the parking lot for visiting climbers. There is also a fountain at the parking for your drinking pleasure.
Coming from the east, take a right up the small road that goes directly through the tiny center of Orpierre. Drive past the small bar on the left (take note for post climb) the road leads directly to the parking lot after about 100 meters. Take the well marked trail just above the parking to the cliff. The walk takes about 10 minutes.
Browse More Classics in Secteur Chateau
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Secteur Chateau:
Costaud Lulu 5.10b/c Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet
Heureusement il y a la biere 5.13a Sport, 80 feet
Featured Route For Secteur Chateau
Costaud Lulu 5.10b/c International : France : ... : Secteur Chateau
Great climbing on big holds on a steep start, leading to vertical terrain for a nice finish.Juggy start. Sustained steepness but never a shut down move. Hang in there!This location's small perch has a number of great routes for the grade.Popular, but, deservedly so. ...[more] Browse More Classics in International