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The Arch Wall
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Secrets and Lies 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Darl Biniaz, Todd Goss
Page Views: 155
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Oct 31, 2010
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Private Land Owned by Teck Cominco Mining Co MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A steadily-steepening route with a pumpy, reachy crux on less-than-totally-positive holds.

Start up a dirty, crumbling alcove to the first bolt, wondering if the edges you are stepping on in order to clip the first bolt will crumble into oblivion. Continue up and right through three more bolts using large pockets to an enormous, deep pocket (it'll swallow most of your arm).

The fifth bolt and the crux lurk above; figure out how to get to more positive territory with initially inobvious holds and poor feet.

Through the crux, breathe a sigh of relief while trying to figure out the final moves to the anchors.

The Goss guidebook reports that continuing above the rap anchors to another set of anchors clocks in at .12d.


Location 

On the left side of the right alcove of The Arch Wall, the first bolt is located above a loose, dark brown alcove at what appears at first glance to be an uncomfortably high level. The subsequent bolts trend up and right.


Protection 

5 bolts, rap hanger anchors.



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By Eric Godfrey
From: slc, ut
Dec 9, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Hard to figure out, hard to find key holds. I'm pretty sure I figured out the easiest way to do it but it still felt more like .11b to me on the send.