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Climb the low-angled groove to the U-shaped roof. Pull the small roof and climb the face to the anchors. Be careful of the holds near the top. They look great, but one pulled off in my hands at the anchor, causing me to suggest a new rating of 5.9+, instead of the former 5.9. Great climbing, though.
At the right end of the Wall of the Unclimbables, this climb starts below the low-angled right-leaning groove below and the bright green face above.
Gear to 1", 2-bolt anchor. Rap or lower.
|Comments on Secret Weapon
|By Erik Pohlman|
From: Westminster, CO
Apr 29, 2008
My buddy Steve climbed this a week or two ago and thought it felt harder than my suggested 9+. Maybe that hold I pulled off at the anchors was pretty crucial, cause he couldn't clip them. Due to this and the new guidebook, I have updated the rating to 10b/c.