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The Carnal Caves
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Secret Garden 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Wade Forrest, JJ Schlick
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring and Fall
Page Views: 174
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on May 12, 2013
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JJ starts up Secret Garden.

Description 

The Secret Garden is a beautiful face route on the outside wall of the Carnal Cave. Approach the start of the route from the cave via a short rope traverse to a beautiful belay ledge.

Choose your holds wisely for the first 15" passing two bolts. A short traverse leads to an enticing crux section of alligator plates on impeccable red stone. Real in the jugs for a while until the angle backs off, and then enjoy the featured slab to the anchors. Though the crux section is bomber rock, the rest of the route is a bit soft. Choose your footholds wisely. Kinda oldschooly face climbing...


Location 

Follow short fixed rope out of the Carnal Caves to beautiful belay perch.


Protection 

9 bolts



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JJ beginning the crux sequence
JJ beginning the crux sequence
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By Randall Gann
May 13, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13

Thanks to Wade and JJ for another awesome line! Super fun climbing from the start to the chains. Excellent and thoughtful moves in the crux. There is a little spice in the crux section, however, because a fall during the hardest moves would drop you onto the little scoop below the bolt. Probably not the best lead for the climber who is at their limit at the grade.