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Secret Garden

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Secret Garden Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.57234, -111.77322 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 21,887
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: SLC Gymrat on Mar 26, 2003


73° | 51°
Memorial Day

70° | 45°

70° | 48°

74° | 51°

78° | 54°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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christina durtschi on the offwidth just off the tr...

UDOT will ticket cars parked on the south side of the canyon opposite the Secret Garden bouldering area. MORE INFO >>>


The Secret Garden is the home of some of the hardest problems in the canyon, classic moderates, and a few projects that will make the first ascentionist famous for sure. The rock is high quality and it is a good place to warm up or burn out. All of the problems on the warm up boulder are very good and there are tons of eliminates to get your session started. Twisted (V4) is the classic moderate of the area and very worth doing. Lance's Dihedral (v6) is also a classic, try the Bear Hug Arete (V8) and find out what sand bagging really means. The v10 circuit Copperhead, Mr. Mom, All Thumbs, and Shingles are some of the best in the state. Also, if you are really feeling strong, you can give Bully (V11/12) a couple burns. For better beta and an online guide check out or wait until spring, two guide books will be coming out.

Getting There 

Park in the Little Cottonwood Park n' Ride lot. Locate the climber's trail that starts in the northeast most corner of the lot, directly left of the bathroom. From here follow the trail up and east until you reach your desired sub-area.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.1 miles from here

39 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',19],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Secret Garden

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Secret Garden:
The Offwidth   V0 4     Boulder   Goldy Area
Appollo   V0 4     Boulder, 15'   Goldy Area
Direct North Face of Shothole   V0 4     Boulder, 1 pitch, 10'   All Thumbs Boulder
Easy Arete   V0-1 4+     Boulder, 20'   All Thumbs Boulder
Where Have the Holds Gone   V1 5     Boulder, 10'   All Thumbs Boulder
Edges   V2 5+     Boulder, 1 pitch, 12'   Goldy Area
Secret Garden Arete   V2 5+     Boulder, 15'   Copperhead Boulder
Old School   V3 6A     Boulder   The Block
Dan's Problem   V3 6A PG13     Boulder, 13'   All Thumbs Boulder
Go Right   V3 6A     Boulder, 10'   All Thumbs Boulder
Flying Carpet   V4 6B     Boulder, 1 pitch, 12'   Goldy Area
Twisted   V4 6B     Boulder, 12'   Copperhead Boulder
Shingles Stand Start   V4+ 6B+     Boulder   Tiger Stripe Boulder
Lances Dihedral   V6 7A     Boulder, 15'   Copperhead Boulder
Bear Hug   V8 7B     Boulder, 14'   Copperhead Boulder
Copperhead   V9 7C     Boulder, 10'   Copperhead Boulder
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Secret Garden

Featured Route For Secret Garden
Rock Climbing Photo: Tons of fun

Secret Garden Arete V2 5+  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Copperhead Boulder
I don't like bouldering very much but even I can admit this problem is really fun. Start up the arete using the drill scars and an occasional left foot smear or right foot heel hook. This problem isn't very tricky or sequential; it's just a matter of working your way up and daring to go higher and higher. The topout is an airy and exciting mantle. As soon as you get on top you'll want to go do it again!...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Comments on Secret Garden Add Comment
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By Taylor Smith 1
Mar 13, 2016
Pair of 5.10 climbing shoes in the secret garden area. Went climbing on 3/13/16 and found these around 4pm that day.
Please explain the shoe type and color. Please message me if these are your shoes!
By Laron Lemon
From: Salt Lake, UT
Mar 11, 2016
A friend of mine lost his wallet last night. He climbed at the boulders near the park & ride. Please send me a message if you found it. Thank you!

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