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North Wall
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Seconds to Darkness 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Don Reid & Alan Roberts, July 1989
Page Views: 2,785
Submitted By: Jon duSaint on Dec 15, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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On the route. September 2007.

Description 

Killer jamming up nice crack system. Crux is down low and involves hand jamming through a small roof.

Location 

Route is on North Wall of Mariuolumne Dome. If descending from Hobbit Book (or other routes in that area), this wall is next to the descent gully. If coming from below, park as for Drug Dome or Lamb Dome. Walk on a good climbers' trail right around Lamb Dome, then left past Drug Dome. Continue through boulders up and right until the wall is reached. This route is near the left side of the wall.

Protection 

Gear to 3". Two-bolt anchor with rings.


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By Simon Hatfield
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 24, 2011

Descent is rapping off of a big slung horn with a ring or maillon. Make sure to check the webbing, especially the hidden parts, as one piece was pretty rodent chewed last week. There are also options for gear to build an anchor to bring up your 2nd. Wouldn't make a great TR.
By Greg Barnes
Aug 16, 2013

Years ago Don Reid asked me to add an anchor bolt to back up the sling, but we never got around to it. Definitely double-check the slings!
By Eric Fjellanger
Sep 7, 2014

Killer! Now sports a good two-bolt anchor with rings.