Second Time's the Charm  5.7

278 page views Good page? (1 like)

Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 600 feet Consensus:  5.7 [details] FA:  Gene Vallee & Andy Ross New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  apross on Apr 22, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Second Time's the Charm on the right.
Top two pitc...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

A nice mellow route with lots of natural pro and big belay ledges.
Highly recommended for a first time route in the area.

P1. Start up left facing corner to a big block below bolt. Move up left to a corner where at the top move 30ft left to belay. 5.6 100ft.

P2. Follow the long right leaning crack with good gear to a big ledge. Small cam, good wire belay on the ledge to the left. 5.7 200ft

P3. Scramble left to below a right facing corner. Up this with good wires at the start to a big ledge, move right to bolt anchor below a large V groove. 5.6 60ft

P4. Up the groove then move right to belay. 5.6 120ft.

P5. Move up and right to bolt. Face climb up to a big ledge, move left to below another V groove. Good cams belay. 5.6 100ft.

P6. Romp up the groove to the top. 5.4 100ft.

Summit register cairn on left (south) summit. A short down climb to the south gets you to the anchors of It's Only Rock and Roll. See pic/topo of "Rock and Roll" to locate anchors on the way down.

Location 

Drive the road to Two Finger Canyon. From here hike south on the flats .When entrance to One Finger Canyon is reached (about 30mins)walk to near its mouth then hike up to the left to where it levels .Continue to the formation (see topo)

Protection 

Cams from 1/2" to 3", Set of wires, Slings & QD's. Two 60m ropes for rap.

Photos of Second Time's the Charm Slideshow

Add Photo

Starting P1.	Belay, top of P1.	Looking down the top part of P2.
Starting the groove on P4.	Near the top of P5.	Gene on Summit.
Your's truly on Summit.	Tele photo Andy and Gene on the summit