A nice mellow route with lots of natural pro and big belay ledges.
Highly recommended for a first time route in the area.
P1. Start up left facing corner to a big block below bolt. Move up left to a corner where at the top move 30ft left to belay. 5.6 100ft.
P2. Follow the long right leaning crack with good gear to a big ledge. Small cam, good wire belay on the ledge to the left. 5.7 200ft
P3. Scramble left to below a right facing corner. Up this with good wires at the start to a big ledge, move right to bolt anchor below a large V groove. 5.6 60ft
P4. Up the groove then move right to belay. 5.6 120ft.
P5. Move up and right to bolt. Face climb up to a big ledge, move left to below another V groove. Good cams belay. 5.6 100ft.
P6. Romp up the groove to the top. 5.4 100ft.
Summit register cairn on left (south) summit. A short down climb to the south gets you to the anchors of It's Only Rock and Roll. See pic/topo of "Rock and Roll" to locate anchors on the way down.
Drive the road to Two Finger Canyon. From here hike south on the flats .When entrance to One Finger Canyon is reached (about 30mins)walk to near its mouth then hike up to the left to where it levels .Continue to the formation (see topo)
Cams from 1/2" to 3", Set of wires, Slings & QD's. Two 60m ropes for rap.
Near the top of P5.
Belay, top of P1.
BETA PHOTO: Second Time's the Charm on the right.
Top two pitc...
Looking down the top part of P2.
Gene on Summit.
Starting the groove on P4.
Tele photo Andy and Gene on the summit
|By David Pneuman|
From: Montrose, CO
Apr 27, 2013
Go 100 yards south and rap down it's only rock and roll. When down to big ledge, go 100 yards south again.
|By Phil Berggren|
Nov 4, 2013
Climbed this Nov 3 with Jon G. Pretty cool. Somehow missed the rap "to ground" from the massive ledge. The top of P2 Rock and Roll anchors are south 100 yards or so. There are two raps from here to the ground: one short one to the top of P1 R&R anchors, then a longer one to the ground. This would be apparent if one had ascended R&R, but maybe not so much if coming from STTC.