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Second Tier

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Clipboard Area 
Middle Wall 
Tarot Wall 
Three Dihedrals 
Wall of the Dead 

Second Tier Rock Climbing 

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Location: 39.99889, -105.41204 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 245,417
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 29, 2006  with updates from NickWilder and 1 more


17° | 7°

26° | 9°

27° | 18°

24° | 17°

30° | 16°
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BETA PHOTO: Avalon, showing most of the major features. Note:...

Seasonal Raptor Closure - Lifted MORE INFO >>>


The Second Tier is home to most of Avalon's routes, and it's where you'll find the biggest crowds on a busy day. The base of many climbs here is badly eroding with lots of loose rock. It's a bad place to bring dogs, which knock rocks down on belayers below them.

This tier is complex and is split into various parts. See this photo for details.

From left to right:

Tarot Wall - on the left side above the First Tier. Mostly 5.10 and 5.11 sport routes, including The Devil (11c), Lust (10c), The Tower (10a) and Wheel of Fortune (10a). Popular.

Three Dihedrals - Above and right of Tarot Wall. Only a few climbs here, including the popular Dominator (10b).

The Clipboard Area - just right of the Three Dihedrals area. Three quality routes: Chairman of the Board (11d), The Clipboard (11b), & Stigmata (10a).

The Middle Wall - right of the Clipboard Area. Has the classic Strange Science (11c) and Free Fall (12a), and the moderate slab routes Incline Club (7+) and Tomb of Sorrows (9). Popular.

The Wall of the Dead - above and right of the Middle Wall. Four routes, including Dead Can Dance (9) and Dead Again (10c).

Getting There 

Head up the talus field above the Tyrolean Traverse. A dirt trail starts at the top of the talus. Very soon the trail splits: the left branch heads to Tarot Wall and Three Dihedrals; the right branch continues up the hill toward the Middle Wall, Clipboard, and Wall of the Dead. See each area for more detailed info.

You can also reach Tarot Wall by continuing up left past the First Tier; this is convenient if you started your day by climbing there.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.8 miles from here

39 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',1]

Classic Climbing Routes in Second Tier

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Second Tier:
Incline Club   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Middle Wall
The Tower   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Tarot Wall
Dead Can Dance   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Wall of the Dead
Wheel of Fortune   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Tarot Wall
Stigmata   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Clipboard Area
Dead Again   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Wall of the Dead
S.I.N.   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Tarot Wall
Dominator   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Three Dihedrals
Lust   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Tarot Wall
Supernatural   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Middle Wall
Strange Science   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Middle Wall
The Clipboard   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Clipboard Area
Chairman of the Board   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Clipboard Area
The Devil   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Tarot Wall
Ripcord   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Middle Wall
Free Fall   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Middle Wall
Fapanese Direct   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Tarot Wall
The Constant Gardener (aka the Pursuit of Fappiness)   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Tarot Wall
Earth Angel   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Tarot Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Second Tier

Featured Route For Second Tier
Rock Climbing Photo: Earth Angel is the leftmost bolted route on Tarot ...

Earth Angel 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Tarot Wall
Avalon's first and hardest sport route, Earth Angel, is the stunning arĂȘte/face on the far left side of Tarot Wall. It's hard to believe a route this good hasn't seen a second ascent (as per Rolofson's new guide book) until today; however, we did find the route somewhat dirty and lichen-covered in places so it is possible. Face climb past 3 bolts to a good stance below the roof. Crank over the roof (12a) and ascend the very sustained and technical face above. A wild dynamic move (...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Second Tier
Photos of Second Tier Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The First Tier and Tarot Wall areas of Avalon.
BETA PHOTO: The First Tier and Tarot Wall areas of Avalon.
Rock Climbing Photo: Avalon Upper Wall Routes.  Photo taken from Upper ...
BETA PHOTO: Avalon Upper Wall Routes. Photo taken from Upper ...

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