Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
Sunset South
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Afternoon Delight 
Afternoon Walk 
Airy Arete 
Back Street Revelations 
Black Magic 
Blonde Ambition 
Bountiful Barnacles 
Cobbler, The 
Dodge City 
Jenga Direct 
Jenga Tower 
Jug Mania 
Jugular Vein 
Liberty Bell 
Little Pearl 
Mercinary Territory 
Nickiís Climb 5.4 
Northwest Conversion 
Pancake Flake 
Pigs in Space 
Second Sun 
Silent Runner 
Squeeze Box 
Sunset Sonata 
Temple of Doom 
Train Time 
Train Time Direct 
Walk in the Park 
Wind Walker 
Unsorted Routes:

Second Sun 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Rob Robinson, Peter Henley - 1980
Page Views: 1,634
Submitted By: saxfiend on Dec 1, 2006
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
corey on second sun


Second Sun is a full-value 5.9 that gets a well-deserved three stars in the DCA. Occasionally strenuous stances for placing pro mean you better be solid at the grade to lead this route.

A somewhat slabby start moves into a short, shallow dihedral, then to thin moves over a bulge. Continue up to a small roof; pull the roof move and follow another dihedral to a more juggy finish.


Starts just left of Blonde Ambition.


Small to medium nuts and cams. Bolted anchors.

Comments on Second Sun Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Dec 12, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

I don't remember stances for gear being that bad at all... though there were some heady moves above a #3 stopper at the crux. Awesome route with great protection!

By saxfiend
From: Decatur, GA
Aug 13, 2007

Outstanding route. I enjoyed leading it so much that I had to bump it up to four stars!

By Sam Adams
From: Knoxville
Aug 24, 2009

Stances for placing gear were fine to me. The unnerving part was climbing above my gear at the first crux, but that's way cool once you've done it.

By Johan Grahnen
From: Palo Alto, CA
Jun 16, 2013

The flake at the start flexes slightly under outward pull, so be careful when placing cams behind it.