|Consensus:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|Submitted By:||George Bell on Oct 28, 2001|
|Comments on Second Pinnacle East Face||Add Comment|
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 5, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Like some of the other 5.6-5.8 climbs in Gregory Amphitheatre, I found this one to be "old school" for its grade. Really fun though, 3 stars in this venue.
The first pitch is maybe only 15m tall, but requires 20+m of rope because of its left-right nature. Watch for drag. You can protect the delicate face climbing by slinging large branches of the tree behind you, but a whipper would pound you into the trunk or impale you on a branch as you swing in, so keeep the pro overhead! The second pitch, 35 meters in it's own right is the better of the two, provided you climb the face left of the nasty broken red dihedral, and protects just fine on Aliens. Continue up and to the top to belay on the eye bolt.
By Ray Lovestead
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 27, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Some 5.8 moves up with poor pro in places. Negotiating underneath the tree is getting harder as the years go by.
Both the 1st and 2nd pitches have really run out sections. Be confident at the grade and you'll be fine. I'd never trust putting an Alien or TCU in the piton scars, flares too much.
I recommend doing it in 3 pitches. The route zig zags around and generates lots of rope drag. Single eyebolt for rapping at the peak.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Aug 17, 2008
|Zig zag. I slung the tree branch and grimly laughed about the probability of it doing any good. It was hard to find the 1st belay anchorage in my opinion. Kind of run out in sections. At one point on the face climbing in P2, I knew if I fell I would deck on a nasty ledge. This is why I climb....|