|790 page views|
This gem isn't in the Heel and Toe guidebook, but I found the name and rating on a website somewhere, so it must be true.
Just right of Sore-O-Pod is a line of bolts that angles left up a slab. The first move is a gymnastic roof move off the deck. After that, climb 50 or so feet of nice 5.9 and easy 10 slab. A hard move just after the last bolt is by far and away the crux - awfully hard for 5.10. After pulling the crux, move left along the ledge and finish on Sore-O-Pod.
Great rock, great protection, and fun climbing make for a rare Vedauwoo sport route.
Draws, a few pieces of small to medium gear for the easu last 10 feet and the anchor.
Diane Gorski employing a mantle.
|Comments on Second Iteration
|By Anonymous Coward|
Aug 19, 2002
I didn't see a move up from the last bolt, so went left into the Sore-a-pod crack and finished with a couple of good hand jam moves. This variation puts the route at 10a and makes for a very pleasant moderate climb. We belayed from a long rope anchor we'd set up for top-roping 1st Iteration, which meant that the belayer could take good photos of the climb. The start is a challenge for shorter people.
|By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn|
Feb 1, 2004
The only way to keep this in the 10 range is to move left and finish up Sore-a-pod. I managed after, several hangs, to forge it straight up the final headwall without using any of the crack to keep it "clean"and repeated it for the redpoint but it's way hard that way, don't even want to venture a guess at a grade, at least 11d or better.
|By Brian Weinstein|
Mar 25, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
A lot more mellow then posted, except for the last move if you avoid the Sore-o-pod crack. Very well protected and good fun.
|By Chad Bowman|
Jun 25, 2004
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Great climb, dyno start to great face climbing. The crux is the finish, 10c/d, but no harder than that. The last move I dyno'ed to the sloping face (I shredded a sweatshirt a bit). Not a bad climb, pretty new too! Be careful if you set a TR for the pendulum effect.
|By John Kelley|
From: Sedona, AZ
Nov 4, 2004
Nice route, well bolted, I found the last move to be harder than 10d.
|By Jeff G.|
From: Fort Collins
Apr 22, 2005
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
I found the last move to be very, very bizarre, but if done properly, in the 10d to 11a range.
|By Dave Kesonie|
Sep 19, 2006
Contrived last move - the crux bolt is half an armspan from a bomber hand crack on a well established natural line. Such bolting should be avoided in the future.
|By Steven Lucarelli|
From: Moab, UT
Jul 21, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
The last move is not to bad, probably only 10c unless you're short.
From: Powell, WY
May 21, 2010
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
I give the crux a .10c/d rating. When compared to Sketchy Palsy I find it a bit more difficult, because the move requires some thinking and some good flexibility. Whereas Sketchy Palsy, if I remember correctly, requires some serious cranking through a longer crux. Either way they are both hard on the tips and I left both climbs with blood oozing out of them.
Also, if you want to compare this to Hooker, 2nd Iteration is more difficult in my opinion too. Hooker maybe a bit soft.
I also believe the crux move is a bit unnatural given the obtainable crack just to the left of it.
Great climb, well protected and easily lead.