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Hornets Nest
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Second Hand Rose Arete 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 155'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Gary Geraths, Joyce Hesselgrave 1981
Page Views: 3,497
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Jul 17, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43)
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Byron cruising up the beautiful arete.
Check NPS for Closures


Most of this very good route is only 5.5 or so. Just left of the Sharkstooth and the All Tuckered Out, look for a pod with crystals leading up to an appealing narrow ridge. Alternatively, there is a bolted variation on the face just left of the pod and black water streak.

Climb the face to the right at 5.6 to gain the ridge. The easy 5.5 ridge is one of the best pieces of climbing at Rushmore - fun, exposed, and very unique climbing. There are chains at the top now. A 60 meter line makes it to the ground.


9 bolts.

Photos of Second Hand Rose Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Aaron Costello on this fun route.
Aaron Costello on this fun route.
The SHRA in all its glory...
The SHRA in all its glory...
Paul Huebner rapping off of Second Hand Rose Arete. (Photo by Lenore Sobota)
BETA PHOTO: Paul Huebner rapping off of Second Hand Rose Arete...
Brenda climbs Second Hand Rose
Brenda climbs Second Hand Rose
Paul Huebner and Anne Meyer on the top of Second Hand Rose Arete. (Photo by Lenore Sobota)
BETA PHOTO: Paul Huebner and Anne Meyer on the top of Second H...
This might very well be the best route at Rushmore under 5.9. A lot of fun. Backpacks give you an idea of how big this one is...
This might very well be the best route at Rushmore...
Comments on Second Hand Rose Arete Add Comment
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By Gary Geraths
Sep 8, 2003

My wife and I (Gary Geraths, Joyce Hesselgrave) put up this route in the summer oof '81. We had to borrow the bolting gear from various folks in the area ("second hand rose"). I liked the ridge too. Great view. Though my wife was trilled about being on the first acsent the romance with the area disappeared the next day when she was hit by a tour bus. I went along to put up a couple of route the next few days after with Paul Piana. Thanks for the site.

By Aaron Costello
From: Rapid City, SD
Aug 25, 2008

I think this is a great route. It is now well protected, with maybe 8-9 new SS bolts (Thanks Ron and the BHCC!). I used runners on each bolt and still got a little rope drag towards the top. I put some slings around the large horn on top to belay. There are also new rap anchors. A single 60M rope will get you to the ground.

By Joe M
From: Rapid City, SD
Jun 8, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is such a great route! THis is especially great for those who love a "little" exposure, just look off to your left when going up the rib!

By Cody Brechtel
From: Glendale, AZ
Aug 11, 2011

Don't lower from this route, have someone follow and clean.... rap down!

By Paul Huebner
From: Portage, WI
Sep 17, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I got sucked into heading to the left after clipping the second bolt and had to traverse back since the route goes straight up instead. I believe from the second bolt to the arete it's 5.7+. The exposure on the left when on the easy 5.4 arete and the rap is awesome. Reminds me a little of Solitaire.

By SteveRRG
Jul 4, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I think there were actually 10 bolts and the route is about 115' from the belayer. Rapping off the side with a 60m ropes gets safely to the ground. I wish I had taken a couple of cams. A #1 would have been nice between a couple of bolts, but the climbing was easy. A fall off the right side into the gulley would be painful though.

By Kiri Namtvedt
Jun 19, 2013

This is a tremendously fun route! And long! I believe there were at least ten bolts, and it never felt too run out.

By Mark Orsag
Jul 21, 2014

Great and unique climbing. Beginning is a bit awkward and confusing with the two alternate starts. Some moves felt 5.8ish, but after the low bolt on the direct start, it was hard to tell which path you were taking down low. As noted by others here, it looks maybe a bit easier to the right (didn't go that way). For the second though, that would entail some pendulum risk. Expect an "old school" 5.6 at any rate. The arÍte itself is fun and wonderful with unique flowing movement and amazing exposure. A classic! 60m raps to ground with inches to spare...