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Second Gully 

WI3

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, 5 pitches, 800', Grade II
Original: WI3 [details]
FA: unknown
Season: safe winter periods
Page Views: 5,590
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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Second Gully as seen from the approach.

Description 

A fat, fun climb that offers about 800 feet of stepped ice with minimal snow slogging. Descent is best made by walking off to the climbers right at about 3/4 height. This takes you down a few snow filled gullies to the base of Goldrush. Multiple v-threads are usualy fixed, BUT THINK BEFORE YOU THREAD - ALL THAT NYLON GOES SOMEWHERE IN THE SPRING!!!!

This is a good climb for a solid leader in the grade looking to play in the mountains!

This is the second obvious, ice-choked gully on your left as you round the large buttress just past the Outward Bound Hotel. The approach from the parking lot is about 1/2 mile and is usually well packed making snow shoes/skis not always mandatory.

Protection 

Ice screws.


Photos of Second Gully Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom leading P1.
Tom leading P1.
Rock Climbing Photo: P1 2nd Gully.
BETA PHOTO: P1 2nd Gully.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin leading the last pitch of 2nd Gully.
Kevin leading the last pitch of 2nd Gully.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ian taking a self portrait with Kevin cleaning the...
Ian taking a self portrait with Kevin cleaning the...
Rock Climbing Photo: Here is Michelle rappelling 2nd Gully during a bea...
Here is Michelle rappelling 2nd Gully during a bea...

Comments on Second Gully Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
Jun 5, 2008

The best climb in the area for WI3 climbers. Also a great intro to long ice routes for those just breaking free of the ice park.

NOTE: IF YOU HAVE ONLY LED ICE IN THE ICE PARK DO THIS ROUTE AS YOUR FIRST MULTIPITCH ROUTE, NOT STAIRWAY! It is much more forgiving.
By Rob Schichtel
From: Cortez, CO
Dec 12, 2008
rating: WI3

The route now has permanent anchors at the end of P1 and P2. Walk off climber's left off the top of route and circle around to top of P2 where you can walk off the rest of route climber's right. This puts you at the start of Goldrush.
By Ryan N
From: Bellingham, WA
Oct 13, 2012

Great lead for the grade. It's generally very hard ice with only short 15-20ft vertical steps. It can get very cold and windy up there, dress warmly. Also it has a great view of STH from the top.
By garrettem
Nov 27, 2015

There are no longer fixed anchors at the top of pitch 1 and 2. Not sure why, since the bolts have been there probably over a decade, but someone decided to do a half-assed chop job and cut the hangers in half. Doubt you could just replace the hangers, since all bolts are covered with an epoxy, but it could be possible since the bolts weren't cut. There are small trees at each belay that can be used as anchors. The anchors at the top of the third pitch and to rap down part of the walkoff are still there.
By James2
Dec 3, 2015

Don't need bolts on fat ice, and they haven't been there for a decade. They showed up when SJMG thought they owned the mountains, just like you haven't been in T-ride or an ice climber for a decade. Used to simply walk off or rap on trees or v-threads. First set of bolts always disappear in the deep snow any way. Learn how to properly ice climb, leave the crag mentality behind.
By garrettem
Dec 7, 2015

Clearly, we don't know each other, James2.

Previous post was just an update on the current condition of a highly traveled climb that is often recommended to beginners. Plan appropriately.
By Martin Harris
Jan 4, 2016

Just for argument's sake, 2 good bolts is cleaner safer and less trash than tat on trees and nylon v-threads with quicklinks. Just my opinion.

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