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Second East Face 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,573
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jun 3, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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With narcolepsy right behind us, you stay high up ...


The approach for the Second East Face is different than the trail described to the Outside Corner. Instead, park below the JHCOB Wall, then pick a line up the left side of the talus. Contour right, and aim for the lowest trees slightly to the right, and a faint trail can be found. This leads to the base (try not to cross too much scree). Don't do this approach in sandals.

P1) Climb an obvious steep hand crack for ~50 feet to a good ledge (gear anchor). 5.6

P2) Head slightly left, then fire up a thin finger crack. This runs out, and a few moves are a little runout. Finish the pitch up double cracks with a pin to the next ledge. Another gear anchor, 100 feet. 5.7

P3) Various options. A couple of pitons are visible. I found a really nice finger crack slightly to the left which was pretty sweet. Climb up through some trees, than traverse left to finish. 80 feet, 5.7

Descent) Contour left through scrub, than downclimb a short easy gully. This lands you on talus which leads back to the base.


Standard Rack. Mostly small to medium size gear.

Photos of Second East Face Slideshow Add Photo
Second East Face
BETA PHOTO: Second East Face
John Evans
John Evans
Second East Face-age.
Second East Face-age.
Eric Allen on the second pitch (or the top of the ...
Eric Allen on the second pitch (or the top of the ...
JHCOB wall from up canyon.  The north face is in s...
BETA PHOTO: JHCOB wall from up canyon. The north face is in s...
If you see this death-chock you are in the right p...
BETA PHOTO: If you see this death-chock you are in the right p...
Looking down from partway up the first pitch.
Looking down from partway up the first pitch.

Comments on Second East Face Add Comment
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By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
Apr 23, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fun, but not as good as Outside Corner.
By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 16, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great Route!Can be done in 2 pitches w/60m rope.
By Charles Konopa
Jul 3, 2006

The middle of the 3 pitches was fantastic! Since it was only my second trad lead of the summer, I zippered it up for practice and fun. I used as small as a #00 Metolius cam to a #9 Metolius cam. Plus from #5 to #12 stopper, all on just the middle pitch...such variety; I had a splendid day.
By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
Aug 20, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I agree with all of the comments already posted, but I would like to clarify a few things that might be helpful: park as for Narcolepsy, there is a small gully that leads to the lowest angle of scree, hike above the route's start before traversing the death scree chutes and downclimb to the start; can be climbed in two pitches with a 60 meter rope if you set up your belay between the three pins on the route (one below, two above on the right and left); following the pin on the right leads to a runout yet fun arete with an exposed and airy finish, while the pin on the left is easier to protect but quite vegetated. This route made my partner want to invest in a trad rack...it's about time!
By Double D SLC
Oct 2, 2007

There is a thin hand crack on the second pitch that sparkles like camara flashes in the light...trippy.
By John Steiger
Jun 20, 2008

The 3rd pitch arete variation is reminiscent of the last pitch on Steorts' Ridge, although a bit more difficult and not as exposed. It was my and my 10-year-old partner's favorite pitch. To do it, include on the rack brass/steel nuts (e.g., BD microstoppers) to protect the crux moves 5-6 feet above the pin and microcams to protect the final blocky headwall (look for horizontal placements). Also, consider not leaving your kit at the base of the route, but continuing up and over the top to the Outside Corner descent to the west (the descent suggested in the route description looks ugly).
By Brian B Ballard
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 13, 2009

Great Great Route! First and Second Pitches are just wonderful ( Like low angle Goodros) and can be linked up with a long slings to reduce rope drag (keep it outta the crack).
There are slings to rap at top and second belay station. Top ones Seem sketchy. On a 60m rap from the second belay and then you can scramble climbers left and up just a bit. Enjoy, I sure did!
By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
May 11, 2013

2nd pitch is the best. The route has a great aesthetic. We used the Outside Corner walkoff. If you count the aretes from right to left (Outside Corner being the first), this climb ascends the face just to the left of the 3rd arete.
By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 31, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fantastic climb with just as much variety and exposure as Outside Corner. Lacks the crowds though. The start wasn't particularly easy to find. Where we started was almost in some bent over deciduous trees, just on the other side of an extremely steep eroded section of talus. If the belay spot looks kind of terrible you're probably in the right spot.

Took a double rack from .3 to 3. Slightly overkill but the approach is easy. Could've gotten by with some singles on either end. Didn't place almost any nuts for some reason, only a couple brassies. Most of the cracks are so perfectly parallel you can't help yourself. Some wrapped boulders at the second and final belays but don't count on them, the webbing is getting worn.

Starting up the 3rd pitch is a piton directly above the tat. It helps protect the thin moves off the belay but it's wobbling a bit. Run out the final 20+ feet to the top of the arete for the finish. Ducking off left too soon on the 3rd pitch doesn't give you full value.

Walkoff isn't bad at all, just somewhat slick. Contour slightly downhill directly off the top of the climb. Don't try to downclimb the first steep gully you get to, that looks like some 4th/5th class. Continue on without dropping a lot of elevation and cross the two springs then onto the talus.
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