Second East Face
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BETA PHOTO: JHCOB wall from up canyon. The north face is in s...
The approach for the Second East Face is different than the trail described to the Outside Corner. Instead, park below the JHCOB Wall, then pick a line up the left side of the talus. Contour right, and aim for the lowest trees slightly to the right, and a faint trail can be found. This leads to the base (try not to cross too much scree). Don't do this approach in sandals.
P1) Climb an obvious steep hand crack for ~50 feet to a good ledge (gear anchor). 5.6
P2) Head slightly left, then fire up a thin finger crack. This runs out, and a few moves are a little runout. Finish the pitch up double cracks with a pin to the next ledge. Another gear anchor, 100 feet. 5.7
P3) Various options. A couple of pitons are visible. I found a really nice finger crack slightly to the left which was pretty sweet. Climb up through some trees, than traverse left to finish. 80 feet, 5.7
Descent) Contour left through scrub, than downclimb a short easy gully. This lands you on talus which leads back to the base.
Standard Rack. Mostly small to medium size gear.
BETA PHOTO: Second East Face
Second East Face-age.
Looking down from partway up the first pitch.
Eric Allen on the second pitch (or the top of the ...
|Comments on Second East Face
From: Spokane, WA
Apr 23, 2005
Fun, but not as good as Outside Corner.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 16, 2005
Great Route!Can be done in 2 pitches w/60m rope.
|By Charles Konopa|
Jul 3, 2006
The middle of the 3 pitches was fantastic! Since it was only my second trad lead of the summer, I zippered it up for practice and fun. I used as small as a #00 Metolius cam to a #9 Metolius cam. Plus from #5 to #12 stopper, all on just the middle pitch...such variety; I had a splendid day.
|By Ryan Brough|
From: Arvada, Colorado
Aug 20, 2006
I agree with all of the comments already posted, but I would like to clarify a few things that might be helpful: park as for Narcolepsy, there is a small gully that leads to the lowest angle of scree, hike above the route's start before traversing the death scree chutes and downclimb to the start; can be climbed in two pitches with a 60 meter rope if you set up your belay between the three pins on the route (one below, two above on the right and left); following the pin on the right leads to a runout yet fun arete with an exposed and airy finish, while the pin on the left is easier to protect but quite vegetated. This route made my partner want to invest in a trad rack...it's about time!
|By Double D SLC|
Oct 2, 2007
There is a thin hand crack on the second pitch that sparkles like camara flashes in the light...trippy.
|By John Steiger|
Jun 20, 2008
The 3rd pitch arete variation is reminiscent of the last pitch on Steorts' Ridge, although a bit more difficult and not as exposed. It was my and my 10-year-old partner's favorite pitch. To do it, include on the rack brass/steel nuts (e.g., BD microstoppers) to protect the crux moves 5-6 feet above the pin and microcams to protect the final blocky headwall (look for horizontal placements). Also, consider not leaving your kit at the base of the route, but continuing up and over the top to the Outside Corner descent to the west (the descent suggested in the route description looks ugly).
|By Brian B Ballard|
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 13, 2009
Great Great Route! First and Second Pitches are just wonderful ( Like low angle Goodros) and can be linked up with a long slings to reduce rope drag (keep it outta the crack).
There are slings to rap at top and second belay station. Top ones Seem sketchy. On a 60m rap from the second belay and then you can scramble climbers left and up just a bit. Enjoy, I sure did!
|By Sam Cannon|
From: Holladay, UT
May 11, 2013
2nd pitch is the best. The route has a great aesthetic. We used the Outside Corner walkoff. If you count the aretes from right to left (Outside Corner being the first), this climb ascends the face just to the left of the 3rd arete.