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South Side
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Lichen or Not T 
Mettle Detector T,S 
name unknown (Bamboozled) T 
Parachute Woman T 
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Second Coming T 
Short Man's Sorrow T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Second Coming 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Stan Wallace, Ron Cousins, Art Williams, Jim McEver - 1972
Page Views: 11,446
Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Oct 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (113)
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Huong struggles with some other leader's welded nu...


Pitch 1: Climb easy ground, allowing yourself to be funneled to the crux. As the crack reaches vertical you will definitely begin to realize where the difficulty is. Immediately after the crux, belay on the ledge. Gear anchor. It looks like there were bolts there at one time. 30m

Pitch 2: Continue up the easing crack to a belay in some vegetation. 60m


This is one of two obvious right-arching dihedrals well to the left of Gemini Crack (the other is Rat's Ass).


Standard rack. Rappel from either of two new sets of ring anchors (near the old rap tree) above Gemini Crack. Gemini can be crowded.

Photos of Second Coming Slideshow Add Photo
Nearing the crux on Second Coming, Looking Glass, ...
Nearing the crux on Second Coming, Looking Glass, ...
At the base
At the base
D. Lutes following the first pitch of Second Comin...
D. Lutes following the first pitch of Second Comin...
Looking down from P1 belay
Looking down from P1 belay
P2 second comming
P2 second comming
I only did half of the first pitch, but i found so...
I only did half of the first pitch, but i found so...

Comments on Second Coming Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 30, 2014
By Rob Dillon
Oct 16, 2006

Second Coming has scored numerous injuries from people blowing it at the crux and tumbling down the slab. Make sure your gear is solid before you commit.
By Danny Inman
From: Arvada
Apr 1, 2007

Very nice.
By saxfiend
From: Decatur, GA
Apr 1, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Excellent route! It's easy to see why some leaders have taken falls at the crux bulge; it's a delicate sequence on holds that felt a little slick to me. But the move is well-protected.
By Chuck Parks
From: Atlanta, GA
Feb 1, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Leaders should be advised that the right face of the corner above the typical pitch 1 belay ledge is composed of large, and very hollow flakes. Be careful how you place gear here, or continue up another 20 feet or so and belay at a smaller ledge.
By Floridaputz
From: Oakland Park, Florida
Mar 14, 2008

very enjoyable climb. Good warm up for the 5.8's on the S Face. I like this climb, you build a belay after the first pitch, the rest is a nice cruise.
By ed hall
From: melbourne fl
Aug 8, 2009

I agree with chuck parks do NOT belay off the flakes, they have been there forever but plenty of other solid cracks and brows to hang an anchor.
By Joshua McDaniel
From: Johnson City, TN
Nov 21, 2009

Hadn't climbed this route in quite a few years, and someone on the ground told me that 'avoid rope drag on the last pitch by climbing 10-15 feet higher than the ledge just after the crux.'

So I did this and it puts you right underneath the big hanging flake corner. The crack in the corner at the '2nd' ledge is very hollow. I had to tap around for quite a while to find sound placements to belay up my second.

I don't know where the climb higher past the first ledge advice came from...but I would suggest belaying just after the crux at the first ledge.
By saxfiend
From: Decatur, GA
Nov 22, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Joshua McDaniel wrote:
I would suggest belaying just after the crux at the first ledge.

I agree, there's no good reason to climb higher to what would be a marginal anchor. I've always used this first ledge whenever I've led Second Coming; there's very solid placements for anchoring there (which is probably why the bolts were chopped), and I've never experienced any rope drag on the second pitch.
By Rob Rives
May 3, 2010

I couldn't help but be giddy after leading the first pitch. A lot of fun for the grade!
By Asymptote
From: Lawrenceville, GA
Jul 11, 2010

Flake at 1st belay is pretty hollow but will take small cams well, there is a solid red tri-cam placement in a brow on the left face of the corner plus the route eats gear from the ledge up for 20' so just put something in to protect the anchor. Shouldn't have to worry about falling. It's like 5.3 until you get near the top.
By cammyjams
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 13, 2011

This was the first technical rock climb I ever did, back in 1992 with Mike McCormick of Looking Glass Outfitters. What a treat it is to come back now and read about it. Seems like only yesterday. I remember asking Mike on that first day "How can I do what you do?" (meaning lead trad) he looked at me for a moment and said "you've got a long apprenticeship ahead of you".
By Alan Howell
May 7, 2012

This is truly a classic line, and offers a great opportunity for new crack climbers to practice jams ranging from tips laybacking to full fist.

The belay after the bulge is quite solid. Some of the above comments are confusing and I'm not sure why anyone would want to place gear under the flakes as they are obviously expanding. Any cams you would place in the main crack are solid if placed deep enough, and there is a nice directional in an eye brow to the left to take the weight of a fall, plus keeping your rope in a more workable and less damaging angle. No need to move higher to the smaller ledge.

The crux move below the belay is a bit of a grunt for 5.7, but basically a one move deal, and well protected. The second pitch is very enjoyable and straightforward, but make sure to keep to the left at the final section where the crack ends to keep to the grade.

The rap station used to be the large tree at the top, but the new bolted station is now down and right of the tree, of which you must do a short rappel off the tree anyway to get to safely. I guess this station was added to keep pressure off the tree, but it adds a bit of time and precariousness. Two 60m ropes will get you down to the ledge for the second rap to the ground.

Standard rack from 00 to 3" is useful. You can do it with all cams, but there are some stellar nut placements if so desired.
By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
May 8, 2012

@ Alan. There is a rap station up and left (climber) (maybe 20 feet @ 11:00) of the old rap tree. You'll be able to do this route in one or two pitches finishing at the new rap station.
Gemini rap anchors...from ccc website.
Gemini rap anchors...from ccc website.
By Jeff Gregory
From: Columbia, South Carolina
Sep 15, 2012

I had such a great experience on this route as my first lead in the 5.7 grade. The crux IS very well protected and the rest of the route eats gear and is very straight forward. My lesson learned was in stopper placement. Lots of great opportunities in this crack system, as well as in the eyebrows.
By Cody Ashe
Feb 24, 2013

Got to follow my buddy TJ up and the crux move was wet. I feel like it made it a little tougher than it needed to be.
By Jonathan Dull
From: Boone, NC
Jul 22, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Seconds is a great warm up and allows for some actual jamming on the first pitch. You can place a bomber .3 Camalot (or comparable size cam) in the horizontal out right of the bulge (crux). Continue up about 15 feet after pulling the bulge (crux) and build belay in the dihedral.
By engineer1984
From: Ogden, UT
Aug 27, 2014

From the topo, it looks as though you need two ropes to rappel or am I missing something?

Are there two pitches of rap rings or just one set at the top of the climb? I have one 60m rope and am flying to visit this area. Maybe I can't do this climb?

By Scott Phil
From: NC
Aug 30, 2014

Yep, you will need two 60 meter ropes to get down. Once upon a time there was a bolt at the end of the first pitch of 2nd Coming, but it was removed around 20-30 years ago.
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