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The Whale's Tail
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amputee Love T 
C'est What? S 
Clementine T 
Dihedral One T 
Dihedral Two T 
East Slabs T 
Finger Crack T 
Free Speech S 
Gumbo T 
Gut Feeling T 
Horangutan T 
Jack The Ripper T 
Jim Crack T 
Kid's Climb T 
Left Arete T 
M T,S 
Martindale T 
Monument, The S 
NED (Nothing Except Dynamics) T 
New Cambria T,TR 
No Problem T 
Northeast Arete T 
Second Coming S,TR 
Spoof T 
Spoof Roof T 
West Crack T,TR 
West Dihedral T,TR 
West Face [Whale's Tail] T,TR 
Yorkshire Ripper, The T 
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Second Coming 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c X

Type:  Sport, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Brooks, Montgomery (on TR) 1986
Page Views: 441
Submitted By: Tony B on Jul 1, 2001

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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>


Find the route as for "Spoof" climb up the ramp of Spoof for about 30 feet, until a few bolts become [visible] overhead and slightly to the right. Those are the bolts of 'M.' Instead of climbing 'M,' traverse directly to the right, forcing a slightly contrived line about 2 meters further to the right. Climb directly up through the roof and then diagonally left to reach the anchors of 'M.' The holds are more positive than most Eldo 5.11s.


The route is best TR'd after leading the route "M", although if you solo 5.11, you can lead it. Leading this consists of clipping a few pins on the 5.8 start (as for Spoof), then either running for the top anchor (shared with 'M') or moving left to clip the bolts of 'M' and moving back right to do the route. If you wanted to supplement the old fixed pins on the 5.8 section of Spoof, you could place cams, but you're climbing a 5.11 and probably don't need more on teh 5.8 section.

The holds are fairly positive and the climbing is reasonable. It does not add great difficulty to traverse back and forth to clip the bolts of 'M', but you may as well TR this climb.

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