Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
The Whale's Tail
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amputee Love 
C'est What? 
Dihedral One 
Dihedral Two 
East Slabs 
Finger Crack 
Free Speech 
Gut Feeling 
Jack The Ripper 
Kid's Climb 
Left Arete 
Monument, The 
NED (Nothing Except Dynamics) 
New Cambria 
No Problem 
Northeast Arete 
Second Coming 
Spoof Roof 
West Crack 
West Dihedral 
West Face [Whale's Tail] 
Yorkshire Ripper, The 

Second Coming 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c X

Type:  Sport, TR
FA: Brooks, Montgomery (on TR) 1986
Page Views: 328
Submitted By: Tony B on Jul 1, 2001
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>


Find the route as for "Spoof" climb up the ramp of Spoof for about 30 feet, until a few bolts become [visible] overhead and slightly to the right. Those are the bolts of 'M.' Instead of climbing 'M,' traverse directly to the right, forcing a slightly contrived line about 2 meters further to the right. Climb directly up through the roof and then diagonally left to reach the anchors of 'M.' The holds are more positive than most Eldo 5.11s.


The route is best TR'd after leading the route "M", although if you solo 5.11, you can lead it. Leading this consists of clipping a few pins on the 5.8 start (as for Spoof), then either running for the top anchor (shared with 'M') or moving left to clip the bolts of 'M' and moving back right to do the route. If you wanted to supplement the old fixed pins on the 5.8 section of Spoof, you could place cams, but you're climbing a 5.11 and probably don't need more on teh 5.8 section.

The holds are fairly positive and the climbing is reasonable. It does not add great difficulty to traverse back and forth to clip the bolts of 'M', but you may as well TR this climb.

Comments on Second Coming Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -