Herein is offered a nice little combination of pitches on the Second Buttress of Hallett for those seeking a longer, more continuous excursion up the vague, contorted stone of this famous wall. It combines the Hesse-Ferguson, Culp-Bossier, and Jackson-Johnson for a nice tour. Two characteristics define the common Hallett experience: route finding is very difficult, particularly the higher you go; and the corollary, that with enough mental fortitude one can climb anywhere on this wall. This combination takes advantage of these qualities and offers several excellent pitches up to 5.9. It is perhaps the longest route possible on this part of the wall.
Begin 20m right of the Love Route corner, on a ledge at the base of a right-facing corner (FP).
P1: Climb the corner (long pitch).
P2: Move up into a left-facing corner and belay below a rotten roof.
P3: Move right onto a nice, clean slab, and climb up and R (5.9) to the base of a right-facing corner.
P4: Climb the corner (5.9) to the big ledge.
P5-6: Follow Culp-Bossier.
P7: Angle up a long ramp (5.5) to the base of the crux pitch of Jackson-Johnson (a steep, right-facing corner with fixed pins).
P8: Climb the corner (5.9).
P9: Exit to the top. It is also possible to climb the wall (very runout 5.7) left of the 2 Culp-Bossier pitches, then move right on the ramp.
This is one of my favorite combos in the Park.
Standard assemblage of pre-apocalyptic trinkets from wires (I always carry RPs on Hallett), including extra mid-size, to a 3.5" cam, with accompanying slings to ease the inevitable rope drag.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Aug 8, 2005
Does anyone have any beta on the runout traverse getting to the 5.9 RF corner directly above the RF dihedral on Culp-Bossier's 2nd pitch? I guess you can get there from Hesse-Ferguson or the RF corner just to the left of Culp-Bossier.
On the RF corner left of Culp-Bossier, do you traverse above or below the bulge at the end of the corner? Is there any gear in the traverse?
|By Charles Vernon|
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 8, 2005
AC, I did that pitch earlier this summer and it is not hard for 5.9; in fact I think Rossiter gives it 8 or 8+. There is reasonable gear every 10-15 feet, and the climbing is excellent (route finding is a bit tricky but nothing to worry about). I actually enjoyed it even more than the 5.9 corner on the next pitch, though that is also very good. We approached from Hesse-Ferguson, so I can't comment on the corner left of Culp.
|By david goldstein|
Aug 7, 2006
This variation is an enhanced version of the route Gillett calls "In Between" (variation B). The first two pitches are so-so but the rest are excellent. The way we did P7 connecting Culp-Boissier to Johnson-Jackson, which seemed a pretty naturally way to go, involved a 15M traverse that wasn't very hard but didn't have much gear; the point being that you want to make sure that your second is up to following a basically unprotected ~5.7 traverse.
|By Mitch Musci|
Aug 14, 2007
Another great variation goes up the right side of the giant prow in the middle of the wall instead of the left (Culp Bossier). We belayed just above the 5.9 dihedral of "in-between" rather than continuing to the giant belay ledge. This is an incredible linkup and offers steep climbing on big holds!
Lieback a nice flake in white rock up and right of the belay and climb through steep terrain with good holds. Continue up through a wide crack and set a belay below steep cracks (5.8 165ft). The next pitch takes on several finger and hand cracks with good feet and angles up into the big RF corner with a roof at the top. Pull the roof - exciting 5.9 - and veer right up the ramp to belay (180ft, a belay can be built lower just above the roof). This is the 5.5 ramp that connects with Jackson Johnson's crux pitch.
|By Gregger Man|
Sep 12, 2011
+1 for Mitch Musci's Dark Side variation.
|By Jonathan Stickel|
From: Golden, CO
Jun 30, 2014
Here is what we climbed yesterday. We followed Gillett's guide, and I use his route names and variation letters below.
Pitch 1. Start with In Between (same as P1 above).
Pitch 2. Variation C of In Between; this is the right-facing dihedral just to the right of the left-facing dihedral described above. Turn the roof to the left and belay. Stiff 5.8 with tricky pro but highly enjoyable.
Pitches 3&4. Variation B of In Between (same as P3&4 above, 5.9).
Pitches 5&6. Variation E of Culp-Bossier; this is the same as the variation described by Mitch Musci (5.8 and 5.9).
Pitch 7. Variation D of Culp-Bossier. Ascend the long, right-trending ramp (same as P7 above).
Pitch 8. Jackson-Johnson crux pitch (5.9).
Pitch 9. Climb to the top (short but tricky, poor pro).
So all the pitches have previously been described here except for the Pitch 2 variation. All together, there are 4 pitches of 5.9 and 2 of 5.8. Very sustained and quality climbing! We thought the overall crux of this long route is the Jackson-Johnson 5.9 pitch.