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 ADVANCED
Grand Wall Base Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aged in Oak T 
Apron Strings T 
Arrowroot T 
Exasperator T 
Flake, The T 
Flex Capacitor T 
Ghostdancing T 
Jingus the Cat T 
Knacker Cracker T 
Merci Me S 
Peasant's Route T 
Rutabaga T 
Seasoned in the Sun T 
Turnip T 

Seasoned in the Sun 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ourom, Lane 1977
Season: dry
Page Views: 5,457
Submitted By: Alpine Carl on Jun 18, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (67)
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Splitter

Description 

Seasoned in the Sun is would make a great warm up for a day of 5.10 climbing at the Chief, and in some ways is more enjoyable than Exasperator: no finger buckets/pinscars, bouldery crux at bottom and super-sustained hands at top, all in a cool, rarely visited part of the Grand Wall "base" area. Highly, highly recommended.

Location 

From the base of the Grand Wall, where Apron Strings, Exasperator, and Peasant's Route all start, hike left along the base of the cliff (the Flake Escape start to the Grand is over here, too). It's always farther than I remember, but keep going: you can't miss the beautiful splitter going straight up from the trail, which peters out pretty quick after that.

Protection 

TCUs, cams to 2.5 inches or so, set of nuts.
Fixed anchors at the top with rap rings, and you can TR and rap with a 60, but it will be close, so knot the ends of your rope!


Photos of Seasoned in the Sun Slideshow Add Photo
Excellent rock.
BETA PHOTO: Excellent rock.
Mark coming back for seconds after leading
Mark coming back for seconds after leading
Kimberly on TR
Kimberly on TR
Seasoned in the Sun - 10b
BETA PHOTO: Seasoned in the Sun - 10b
Seasoned in the sun, 5.10b
Seasoned in the sun, 5.10b
full route from the top. Longer than it looks from below! <br />
full route from the top. Longer than it looks from...
Where else can you enjoy fine climbing like this with no one else in sight.  Collin taking a run.
Where else can you enjoy fine climbing like this w...
Caitlin on TR
Caitlin on TR
Seasoned in the sun, 5.10b
Seasoned in the sun, 5.10b

Comments on Seasoned in the Sun Add Comment
Show which comments
By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Aug 7, 2007

Definitely highly recommended. As with many of the Squamish cracks that are less than vertical it is easy to underestimate the length, difficulty and size of pro required for this climb. Take lots of finger and tight-hand sized pieces.
By JSH
Administrator
Sep 2, 2007

I found the bottom "crux" to be relatively easy, but the off-fingers/rings section (0.5 camalots) above the pod put me into quite a ... state (but perhaps I shouldn't have warmed up at my limit, and in my defense it did start to rain just then). It's a nice, varied-size crack. As the previous comment said, similar to Klahanie Crack, it's longer than it looks from the ground, but eats nuts for breakfast!
By coop
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Mar 2, 2008

Definitely longer than it looks from the ground but great route. The off-fingers was the crux in my opinion too but not too many moves of them.
By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
Apr 23, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Stellar route and worth the extra walk. The hands sections are just fun, the tighter sections definitely throw a bit of spice into this one. The gear is great the whole way.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 21, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

hands down one of the best 5.10s i've done anywhere- and certainly one of the top 5 in Squamish. Go and do it. You'll be glad you did.
By Alex Charmoz
From: Fairfield, CT
Jul 3, 2014

This climb is incredible. The awkward bouldery stuff is great and the hand crack is even better. It is deceivingly longer that it looks from the ground I agree, 3 .75's were very helpful for a baby like me that didn't want to run it out. Oh, and I finally got to slot some brass at the bottom, ya brah.