Seasoned in the Sun 5.10b
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 95 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10- [details] |
| FA: | Ourom, Lane 1977 |
| Season: | dry |
| Submitted By: | Alpine Carl on Jun 18, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: Seasoned in the Sun - 10b
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Description Seasoned in the Sun is would make a great warm up for a day of 5.10 climbing at the Chief, and in some ways is more enjoyable than Exasperator: no finger buckets/pinscars, bouldery crux at bottom and super-sustained hands at top, all in a cool, rarely visited part of the Grand Wall "base" area. Highly, highly recommended.
Location From the base of the Grand Wall, where Apron Strings, Exasperator, and Peasant's Route all start, hike left along the base of the cliff (the Flake Escape start to the Grand is over here, too). It's always farther than I remember, but keep going: you can't miss the beautiful splitter going straight up from the trail, which peters out pretty quick after that.
Protection TCUs, cams to 2.5 inches or so, set of nuts.
Fixed anchors at the top with rap rings, and you can TR and rap with a 60, but it will be close, so knot the ends of your rope!
BETA PHOTO: Excellent rock.
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Kimberly on TR
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Where else can you enjoy fine climbing like this w...
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Caitlin on TR
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Mark coming back for seconds after leading
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full route from the top. Longer than it looks from...
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Splitter
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| Comments on Seasoned in the Sun |
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By Peter Spindloe
Administrator
From: North Vancouver, BC
Aug 7, 2007
| Definitely highly recommended. As with many of the Squamish cracks that are less than vertical it is easy to underestimate the length, difficulty and size of pro required for this climb. Take lots of finger and tight-hand sized pieces. |
By JSH
Administrator
Sep 2, 2007
| I found the bottom "crux" to be relatively easy, but the off-fingers/rings section (0.5 camalots) above the pod put me into quite a ... state (but perhaps I shouldn't have warmed up at my limit, and in my defense it did start to rain just then). It's a nice, varied-size crack. As the previous comment said, similar to Klahanie Crack, it's longer than it looks from the ground, but eats nuts for breakfast! |
By coop
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Mar 2, 2008
| Definitely longer than it looks from the ground but great route. The off-fingers was the crux in my opinion too but not too many moves of them. |
By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
Apr 23, 2012
rating: 5.10b
| Stellar route and worth the extra walk. The hands sections are just fun, the tighter sections definitely throw a bit of spice into this one. The gear is great the whole way. |
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