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Start up an easy pillar / corner to a wide crack on the right side of a large right facing dihedral. The crack itself is not actually in the back of the dihedral but more on the right face of the dihedral. Climb the wide crack to reach a large ledge located atop the left wall of the starting dihedral. Using large holds transfer out of the start dihedral to gain the ledge. Take a depth breath and stare up at the imposing right facing corner above sporting 4 bolts. Using a mix of THIN face holds on the right side of the corner and the extremely tight crack in the back of the corner, balance your way the the top the feature. Exit the right side of the corner at it's top and climb the easy terrain above for a substantial distance with no pro to a chained anchor.
Starts behind rose bushes 5-10 feet left of the Sudden Pleasure pillar in a large right facing corner.
Bring several 3" to 4" cams for the bottom wide crack, small nuts (brassies) for the upper corner before the bolts, 4 draws for the 4 bolts, a 1.5" to 2" piece to protect a long run out between bolts (#1 BD Camalot), and a small yellow something for exiting the corner (alien, metolius, or C3).
By zach cook
Mar 18, 2015
Some funk down low takes large gear(#4/#3). This route takes great small nuts and leaves great stances for placements if ya look closely. There is also a thank god pod in the corner above 2nd bolt that takes a perfect #1. One of my all time favorite corner lines in the city!