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Organ Needle
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Searching for Ingraham T 

Searching for Ingraham 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: A. Hobson and R. Machina ??
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 375
Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on Nov 6, 2006

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Description 

A failed attempt to find Ingraham's route "SouthWest Wall". What we ended up on was a dirty crack with deteriorating holds. I'm only including this as beta so other climbers can learn what to avoid.

Starting in a dirty fist crack, climb 15 ft up to a large pointy and unstable flake. From this gain another crack system which angles slightly left. A few face holds on either side of the crack help, but are not very solid (we broke a couple off completely). The crack thins down to a crux about 40ft up. Commit to the dicey crux and gain a thank-god ledge. Bail-away, the nex tpitch looks even worse.

Location 

Approach as for Normal Route up to Dark Canyon. A short distance into dark canyon are two very large conifers (A ponderosa and a fir I think) only 20 ft apart. This climb starts up a crack directly behind the fir tree.

Protection 

The cracks on this climb actually offer decent cam placements, except when they are real shallow. We left a long puprle poot sling at the belay ledge.


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