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Capitol Gorge
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Capitol Gorgeous  
Classic Handcrack 
False Premonitions  
Mystery Splitter 
Seamus Chill 
Unnamed 5.12 

Seamus Chill 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 110', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Lianna Winklerprins and Ian Pierce
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 255
Submitted By: Ian Pierce on Jul 10, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: climb the right side of this block

Description 

P1 110' Climb the right chimney. There are two blocks in the climb that you have to get outside the chimney to work around, there are a lot of holds but most are loose. After that continue up into a run out bigger than squeeze chimney/offwidth and then top out on a ledge. We rapped off of a slung boulder here (horrible pull) 5.9 PG-13+.
P2 80'? looks like you could continue up this with some easy face climbing/low angle crack to a tree, it looked pretty run out.

2 60m ropes for the rappel off P1


Location 

~1.2 miles from pavement down capitol gorge. Climb is on the right at the start of a 180' left turn. There is lots of room to pull off the road in the turn.


Protection 

Medium cams, single rack #.5-#4 camalots. A medium hex would be useful instead of the #4.



Photos of Seamus Chill Slideshow Add Photo
this is the start of the climb
BETA PHOTO: this is the start of the climb
sketchy slung boulder at top
BETA PHOTO: sketchy slung boulder at top
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