Seams Like A Dream
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The seam is obvious - the dream is linking it with the first pitch of Between the Sheets - as a single pitch.
Seams Like A Dream: sustained, varied, a little technical, and in character with Between the Sheets. Itís really a continuation of the beautiful first pitch of Between the Sheets, with an additional crux that is a bit more difficult.
Although this route was first realized as a nice alternative to the second pitch of Between the Sheets, and as a continuation of the seam, it was quickly recognized as a means of linking the route as a single stellar pitch. Seams Like A Dream was first red-pointed doing just that.
So, this route's description, including the difficulty and quality rating, are based on the single pitch link up.
Start with the route Between the Sheets. Pass up the hanging belay and traverse right to where the seam starts again. Continue with the seam and finish on the slab above; one nice long pitch.
The location is the same as Between the Sheets. Consider doing the quick scramble from the base of the Left Book, up to the starting ledge.
See Between the Sheets. Use a double length runner on the bolted belay of Between the Sheets, and another one on the first piece of the seam (fixed by others, for Between the Sheets).
Small cams and wired nuts; two bolts (that were drilled on lead). Sling the top with the rope or 15' cord for Belay.
Al near first bolt
BETA PHOTO: View of Seams Like a Dream showing entire route ma...
|Comments on Seams Like A Dream
|By Ol' Toby|
Jul 11, 2011
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b
Awesome direct finish to Between the Sheets, felt like solid .12 to me for the full link. Thin, technical, and occasionally devious moves lead to a perfect knob in the headwall and a final tricky move to finish. No fixed piece in the seam any longer above the belay.