Seamed Like Fun.
||Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA: ||FA: J. Hass/T. Bubb 4/08. FFA: J Haas, solo,4/08|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Faces SW|
|Page Views: ||296|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Apr 28, 2008|
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The start is a bit inobvious, but notice the knote...
|Bastille - M-F closures. Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>|
Grab good holds to climb over a bulge 2 meters up (5.10a) and then good holds above. A slightly right-leaning, small ramp like feature leads up for 25' to a ledge (good stopper placement possible, but no gear until there, prob 5.9-) there is a medium-sized tree on the 3' ledge a few meters right of that bomber stopper....
Climb up a few face moves to reach a thin seam with good nubs and crimps and to a 3-finger side-pull in the seam. A small Alien placement would be possible, but you want the hold! The route crux (10a again) is a big move off the crimp and monos with OK feet after that slot, near the top.
The route is probably 5.10a or 10b, 2-star or 3-star out of 4. As a sport climb, if bolted, it would be 3-star for sure, but presently the insecure climbing with so little gear detracts from the overall experience.
This climb is perhaps 100 feet left of the 'notch' of rock above 'The Dreams' climbs. A tree is at its very base, on the ledge at mid-height, and at the top for an anchor.
TR as of now, but it could (will soon) be lead with a med-large nut for a placement on the first ledge at 20' and perhaps a large brassie or small cam for the seam above.
By Jason Haas
May 6, 2008
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
I soloed this for the FFA while being the third man out, or was that fifth? on Sunday. Good line, worth doing, especially as a TR once on top of the other routes and simply walking left along the ledge system. I'm also calling it Seamed Like Fun.