|The East Quarry
This was first led ground up aid/free. There are a few tricky moves in the beginning, middle, and end. There is no bolt anchor at the top, but a gear anchor can be constructed. It is a natural, thin-crack system with some tricky protection.
The route lies directly between the two sport routes on the far left side of the quarry. It follows an arching, thin finger/layback crack to a low-angle seam, reaching a ledge to a short dirty corner. It is a fun and exciting trad route, easy but a little scary (I wore my helmet).
The gear is there, just a little tricky and on the small side. A little runout in the middle. If you get scared don't worry; you can clip the bolts two feet to the left on Pinkerton (3 if you like). Walk off or rap one of the anchors on the sport routes.
Kent at the mental crux.
Wayne Crill at the crux of Sea Urchin where he was...
|By Wayne Crill|
From: an Altered State
Feb 13, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R
A nice mental/facey warm-upy line with intriguing problem solving on both accounts. Too bad the sport line to the left is so close but still a fun trad lead. Probably a good warmup cliping the bolts through the middle too if one desired.
Nice work on these lines, Mike.