Sea of Tranquility 5.11c/d PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 5 pitches, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.11c/d [details] |
| FA: | Yaniro, Mauer, 1982 |
| Submitted By: | fubar on Jun 18, 2010 |
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Description Amazing climb on the obvious arete right of Romantic Warrior.
Location Do the first pitch of RW. Go up another 15 feet and traverse right across the amazing green face with a couple opportunities for pro (seize them). Belay at the arete at a small ledge with poor bolts, or continue up past another bolt to a slightly better belay. Stay on the arete for two more pitches, both hard 5.11 with incredible exposure, to arrive at the big sloping ledge. Three options from here: rap with double ropes, continue up Romantic Warrior, or take The Escape (5.11 A1 X: straight up the bolt ladder to a belay, then 5.11 climbing past one bolt followed by 100 feet of 5.9, gradually easing as you approach the summit of the Warlock).
Protection Thin to 2 inches, bolts.
| Comments on Sea of Tranquility |
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By Josh Higgins
Dec 7, 2011
| I doubt that this climb is in the 5.11 range. My friend and I were working on freeing Romantic Warrior and onsighting 5.11 face was pretty trivial. We lowered down to TR part of this route and were completely shut down by a move on one of the "5.11" pitches. It's tough... |
By Craig Smith
Jun 15, 2012
| Did it in about '86 with Ron Carson. The '5.11' pitches felt harder that 5.11! I led the first long 5.11 pitch and it felt like good English E5. On the next pitch, the short 5.11 pitch, Ron pulled a hold off of which made for a really hard move. I think it's safe to say that both 5.11 pitches were probably 5.12a if not harder. |
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