Sea of Tranquility
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Amazing climb on the obvious arete right of Romantic Warrior.
Do the first pitch of RW. Go up another 15 feet and traverse right across the amazing green face with a couple opportunities for pro (seize them). Belay at the arete at a small ledge with poor bolts, or continue up past another bolt to a slightly better belay. Stay on the arete for two more pitches, both hard 5.11 with incredible exposure, to arrive at the big sloping ledge. Three options from here: rap with double ropes, continue up Romantic Warrior, or take The Escape (5.11 A1 X: straight up the bolt ladder to a belay, then 5.11 climbing past one bolt followed by 100 feet of 5.9, gradually easing as you approach the summit of the Warlock).
Thin to 2 inches, bolts.
|Comments on Sea of Tranquility
|By Josh Higgins|
Dec 7, 2011
I doubt that this climb is in the 5.11 range. My friend and I were working on freeing Romantic Warrior and onsighting 5.11 face was pretty trivial. We lowered down to TR part of this route and were completely shut down by a move on one of the "5.11" pitches. It's tough...
|By Craig Smith|
Jun 15, 2012
Did it in about '86 with Ron Carson. The '5.11' pitches felt harder that 5.11! I led the first long 5.11 pitch and it felt like good English E5. On the next pitch, the short 5.11 pitch, Ron pulled a hold off of which made for a really hard move. I think it's safe to say that both 5.11 pitches were probably 5.12a if not harder.