Sea of Holes 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches |
| Consensus: | 5.7+ [details] |
| FA: | Ed Webster and Alain Comeau 1985 |
| Submitted By: | lee hansche on May 31, 2007 |
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Looking straight up Sea of Holes.
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Description A really nice route that involves lots of friction and a steep bulge near the top to remind you how to use your hands.... Put up by Ed Webster and Alain Comeau, 2 guys with eyes for good routes this one is a must do if you love friction....
A nice choice if the more popular routes are packed; however, that makes this popular on a busy day, too....
Pitch 1: (5.2) Motor up the slab for 160 ft. to a 2 bolt anchor on a stance....
Pitch 2: Continue straight up clipping a fixed pin and passing to the right of the first arch.... Belay at a 2 bolt ring anchor at the right edge of the second arch....
Pitch 3: (5.5) Smear up and left to a wide white streak and up the streak left of the head wall to a 2 bolt anchor....
Pitch 4: (5.7 or 5.8+) Move up on laybacks and left.... Continue up the slab on the left side of the white streak to the base of a shallow, left-facing corner. Clip a pin and move up and right to a bolt.... The climbing is steeper here for a few moves.... The slab above the bolt can be heady, keep it together to the overlap where you get good gear before mantling on to a mossy slab with a thin streak of clean rock just enough to help you get to the big tree with slings on it at the left side of a large tree ledge....
The 5.8 option to pitch 4 goes over the bulge on your left after the 5.7 crux... After passing the bolt head up and left and find your tricky way over the bulge and head up the slab to an obvious anchor...
Rap down...4 two rope raps....
Location On the left side of the slabs.... Start below twin, right-arching corner overlaps and a prominent white streak....
4 double rope raps from the tree....
Protection Standard rack plus tri-cams.... Two ropes for rapping off....
BETA PHOTO: Sea of Holes topo (playing with the photo editor)....
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Looking down the 3rd pitch.
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View from the top on a November day (2006).
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The third pitch of Sea of Hole. Pretty runout, but...
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N. Conway Skate Park.
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Dave just above the 5.7 crux...
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Dave pulling the crux of the 5.8 variation Finish....
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My 7 year old just over the crux of the route
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By Casey Bald
Sep 17, 2007
| lee, have you ever had the chance to do the 8+/9- variation?
from the third pitch anchor move left after the flake and move up
under the overlap left of the 5.7. clip a bolt on the edge of the
overlap and make an awkward matle/rockover move. climb up and right to a two bolt anchor even with the last pitch's tree anchor...... |
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Nov 14, 2007
| I think the variation Casey talks about is well worth doing. If I remember correctly, the moves are cool and pretty well protected. Plus you get to go to a bolted belay instead of a tree belay. |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 4, 2009
| i did the variation and im gonna add it to the description... |
By Aaron L.
Feb 25, 2010
| Make sure to bring Tri-cams! On the second and third pitch, there are pockets which are too narrow for most cams. Tri-cams (especially the pink one) will help a lot |
By Gabe13
Sep 11, 2010
| There is another nice variation (technically part of Pathfinder, but the only part worth doing i.m.o.): From the pitch 4 anchor, approach the overlap, aiming for an old-ish pin. Step up, clip a bolt over the lip, and crank one 5.9 move onto the slab. Teeter left, throw a medium tricam in a pocket, and you're golden to the rap anchor.
You may continue on a short 5.7 pitch to the final, huge overlap. Anyone ever actually done "Corbett's Crack"? It sure looks harder than 5.8... |
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