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BETA PHOTO: The first pitch of Sea Gypsy, as seen from below. ...
A fun and varied route that pulls through an awesome, obvious roof crack you can see from the ground. The second pitch is a bit spicy but I don't think it's R-rated like the guidebook indicates.
Pitch 1:(5.8 50 ft.) Climb the corner on the right side of the buttress to the two bolt anchor
Pitch 2: (5.8 PG-13/R 70 ft.) Make insecure slabby face moves off the anchor (5.8 crux)to reach a bolt about fifteen feet up. This gets a 5.8R in the guidebook cause if you blow the crux you're going to take a factor two fall on the anchor. After the first bolt continue up easier and slightly run-out climbing right then left up a ramp to a two bolt anchor. (You could probably run this pitch together with pitch one, then you wouldn't have the crux right over the anchor.)
Pitch 3 (5.9+ 90ft.) Climb up under the first, smaller roof, clipping a piece of cord attached to a piton in a small corner over the lip. Pull up into the corner then climb right and then back left till you are under the roof crack. Plug in a #1 or #2 then pull out the roof on jams and crimps on the face on the left. Savor the exposure then climb to the two bolt anchor at the top.
Descent: 2 single rope rappels
Starts on the right side of the buttress about 100 feet left of the obvious Chlitlin Corner.
By Zak Munro
From: VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
Jun 20, 2016
Thought the hardest moves to be heading up to the piton. The jamming out of the roof is solid!