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BETA PHOTO: The first pitch of Sea Gypsy, as seen from below. ...
A fun and varied route that pulls through an awesome, obvious roof crack you can see from the ground. The second pitch is a bit spicy but I don't think it's R-rated like the guidebook indicates.
Pitch 1:(5.8 50 ft.) Climb the corner on the right side of the buttress to the two bolt anchor
Pitch 2: (5.8 PG-13/R 70 ft.) Make insecure slabby face moves off the anchor (5.8 crux)to reach a bolt about fifteen feet up. This gets a 5.8R in the guidebook cause if you blow the crux you're going to take a factor two fall on the anchor. After the first bolt continue up easier and slightly run-out climbing right then left up a ramp to a two bolt anchor. (You could probably run this pitch together with pitch one, then you wouldn't have the crux right over the anchor.)
Pitch 3 (5.9+ 90ft.) Climb up under the first, smaller roof, clipping a piece of cord attached to a piton in a small corner over the lip. Pull up into the corner then climb right and then back left till you are under the roof crack. Plug in a #1 or #2 then pull out the roof on jams and crimps on the face on the left. Savor the exposure then climb to the two bolt anchor at the top.
Descent: 2 single rope rappels
Starts on the right side of the buttress about 100 feet left of the obvious Chlitlin Corner.
By Zak Munro
From: VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
Jun 20, 2016
Thought the hardest moves to be heading up to the piton. The jamming out of the roof is solid!
Sep 21, 2016
First pitch was terrible and dirty with no pro. Second pitch seemed really sketchy and dangerous to me. I think this would be a terrible lead for a 5.9 climber. Probably not even good for a 5.10 climber. Unimpressed with the first two pitches.