Start in the spicy hand crack with undercut feet just right of Tijuana Donkey Show. Jam the hand crack (15 feet) to reach awkward moves up a shallow, right-facing corner (second crux) and gain the chimney beneath the blocks. Move up the seemingly precarious chock-stones then mount the golden block beneath the large roof. Climb right out the roof and set a belay or fire up the puzzled green face to the two bolted hangers right of the small prow.
Standard rack up to #4.
BETA PHOTO: Kyle on Sea Biscuit at belay below the green face....
Chrissie moving onto golden block below the large ...
BETA PHOTO: Upper 25 feet of pitch 1.
|By Lew Strong|
From: Loveland/Vail, CO
May 28, 2013
The route designation is somewhat confusing on this part of the crag. Sea Biscuit leads directly to Funky Gold Patina. In other words, Sea Biscuit is P1, and FGP is P2&3 of a really nice 200 ft route. Linking pitches yields a line that is equal in quality to Neighsayer. We found that the Sea Biscuit pitch goes well as one pitch. We did it by making an airy but easy step left off the roof to an excellent crack with good protection. The "crack" straight above roof won't take pro. The step across is done at the point that the belayer is standing in the photo. The first pitch seemed to be about 5.9. P3 is about 10b sport, p4 is 10a thin hands. It would be nice to have two green c4s for p4, but the anchor will likely take at least one. Take the Neighsayer raps down. They are 15 feet east of the belay. Four stars, for sure. A little easier but more sustained than Neighsayer.
|By K MAN|
From: Lafayette, Co
Aug 17, 2013
Just to clarify Lew Strong is correct. I agree that it goes best as one pitch. I was in between 5.9 and 5.10 rating, just didn't want to sandbag it, so thanks for your input. I also climbed the left crack above the roof when we did it, because it yields protection, nice and airy move to get there. When Tim and I put in the two bolt anchor, the upper section was not yet bolted. The 2 bolt anchor (110 ft) marks the top of Sea Biscuit.