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NE Arete T 
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SE Face 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C1 R

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 5 pitches, 520', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C1 [details]
FA: M. Brown, Z. Harrison, April 2012
New Route: Yes
Season: not summer
Page Views: 810
Submitted By: Zach Harrison on Apr 24, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Pitch 4

Description 

This route is good, even without considering that its in the Grand Canyon, and of course the views...
Rock quality is generally sound, but there are some solid but hollow blocks on pitch 3.

Pitch 1. Boulder up a crack (5.10) to a traverse across blocks to the main corner. Continue up the easier corner to a sit down belay nook. 5.10, 120 feet.
Pitch 2 Go up through the runout squeeze chimmney, layback around the roof to a tips crack crux then face climb above a bolt to the easier crack corner and belay on a big ledge. 5.11 or 5.10 C1, 120 feet.
Pitch 3 Surmount the fun bulging crack into a bouldery fingers section (5.10). Above a bolt, two clean aid nut moves (C1) will get you to a stance. Ascend blocks to big ledge. 5.10, C1, 110 feet.
Pitch 4 Work finger to tip jams up the open corner to a stance, continue laybacking and stemming the varied and challenging corner above to a nice ledge. 5.11+ or 5.10 C1, 80 feet.
Pitch 5 Walk left and climb a low angle left arching crack. At the arete, face climb easy scoops, belay on talus slope from blocks. 5.7 R, 90 feet.

There is no vegetation to battle and all belays have great ledges. Once you find it, getting off route would be quite an achievment. Pitches 1,2 & 3 all require generous use of runners to keep rope drag in check, but not in a tricky way. The route gets morning sun, and plentiful afternoon shade.
All in all, a stellar and demanding tower route.

Location 

The route ascends a large, ramping corner on the southern end of the SE Face. From the NE arete, hike along the base for ~15 minutes until the talus covers up the vertical poop of the Hermit Shale. There is a building sized boulder that is too far. Look for a cairn under the start by a juniper. To get down, hike across the summit plateau, with a detour up to the actual summit, to the NE arete. Proceed to rap into the vegetated, low angle gully of the NE Arete route. Hike your trash out.

Protection 

Protection is solid and dependable along the way, except pitch 5, which is runout, but very easy. Full trad rack of nuts (with BD #1-4 or similar sized for the aid moves), 2X Metolius TCU's 0-2, 2X BD #.5-1, 1X BD #2-4. Bring many long runners. Two protection bolts. No fixed belay or rap stations.


Photos of SE Face Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 2
SE Face route climbs the right leaning ramp that s...
BETA PHOTO: SE Face route climbs the right leaning ramp that s...
Pitch 3
Pitch 3

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