SE Face 5.4
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine |
| Consensus: | 5.2 [details] |
| FA: | G Ledyard Stebbins, Robert Stebbins (1955) |
| Submitted By: | fossana on Jun 7, 2010 |
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Lisa on one of the many gendarmes on the Emerson r...
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Description Short approach for a fun alpine route on solid rock. Short 5.4 crux.
Note that the chimney may be wet in early season.
Route
Climb the 5.4 crack. If the chimney is too wet you can climb the face to the right of a second chimney. The chimney is blocked with chockstones at which point you can easily cross and move left onto an easy ramp system that connects with the original route.
Continue up class 3-4 slabs eventually leading back into the original crack for a pitch of class 4. Head up a broad chute for 500 ft, then cross left across a rib into another chute. Aim for a notch in the ridge then proceed along the amazing ridgeline to the summit, passing several gendarmes to keep the grade at class 4.
Location Approach:
From the trailhead in the N Lake campground take the junction toward Piute Pass. Just before Loch Leven the trail will weave across a typical Sierra headwall. At the right-most part of the hairpin cross-country up the talus field to the base of the route. Emerson is distinct from the reddish, fractured (chossy) Piute Crags to its right. Aim for the left-most of two prominent cracks that split the lower face (see beta photo).
Descent:
S slope (class 3) to Loch Leven, then back down the trail to the N Lake campground.
Protection alpine rack, 50-60m rope (optional)
no fixed anything
lower crack
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BETA PHOTO: topo showing Emerson and the N Lake trailhead
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BETA PHOTO: route and the Piute Crags
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BETA PHOTO: 5.4 crux
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Jascha on the crux
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looking back down the ridgeline
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BETA PHOTO: another overview of the route
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early season glissade descent
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less than optimal chimney conditions
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looking back toward N Lake
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BETA PHOTO: an ice axe may be helpful in early season in the g...
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final ridge traverse
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summit
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BETA PHOTO: the rock rib was much more pleasant to descend tha...
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the descent
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Loch Leven
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Emerson from Loch Leven
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A lunch with a view.
June 2012
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Self portrait at the summit. Perfect day.
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By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Mar 7, 2012
rating: Easy 5th
| A very fun and quick outing! Absolutely stellar, go do it. |
By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 11, 2012
| I think all in all, you do about 1000' of chute hiking combined. It doesn't seem to matter where you cross over, either--just pick an easy spot.
The start and finish more than make up for the less-than-stellar middle section, although I mixed in 4th and 5th class moves in the chutes to make things more interesting.
On the descent, stay as far to skier's left as possible since the ground is most stable there. From above, it often appears you will cliff out many times, but it always goes. |
By spyork
From: Fremont, CA
Jul 6, 2012
| Climbed on 6/30/12 - The entire chimney was dry. Crossing over the rock rib was a bit confusing. I ended up climbing more 5th class than I had to. The finish on the ridge took more time than it should, I kept trying to go around left or right, but then ended up going over the top. The beta about staying left on the descent was great, thanks Aerili! |
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