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Mt. Emerson
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Southeast Face (aka the Waterfall Route) T 

Southeast Face (aka the Waterfall Route) 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: G Ledyard Stebbins, Robert Stebbins (August 1955)
Page Views: 10,534
Submitted By: fossana on Jun 7, 2010

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Lisa on one of the many gendarmes on the Emerson r...

Description 

Short approach for a fun alpine route on solid rock with varied climbing. Short 5.4 crux.

Note that the chimney may be wet in early season or if there is significant rainfall during otherwise drier months. The route is water polished, so be prepared.

Route
Climb the 5.4 crack. If the chimney is too wet there you can climb the face to the right of a second chimney, which is just to the right of the normal route. The chimney is blocked with a large chockstone at which point you can easily cross and move left onto an easy, but exposed ramp system that connects with the original route. Continue up class 3-4 slabs eventually leading back into the original crack for a pitch of class 4. Head up a broad chute for 500 ft, then cross left across a rib into another chute. Aim for a notch in the ridge then proceed along the amazing ridgeline to the summit, passing several gendarmes to keep the grade at class 4.

Rock Climbing Photo: Amy on the crux pitch (P1)
Amy on the crux pitch (P1)


Rock Climbing Photo: Matt on the wet season waterfall bypass after cros...
Matt on the wet season waterfall bypass after crossing over the chockstone


Rock Climbing Photo: Amy on one of the early class 4 sections
Amy on one of the early class 4 sections


Rock Climbing Photo: easy scrambling before the gully
easy scrambling before the gully


Rock Climbing Photo: Just below the point at which you'll cross left ov...
Just below the point at which you'll cross left over the rib into another chute.


Rock Climbing Photo: ridge traverse section
ridge traverse section


Rock Climbing Photo: final push to the summit
final push to the summit

Location 

Approach:
Emerson is distinct from the reddish, fractured (chossy) Piute Crags to its right. From the trailhead in the N Lake campground take the junction toward Piute Pass. Just before Loch Leven the trail will weave up some granite ramps. Cross country NW to reach the start. Aim for the left-most of two prominent cracks that split the lower face.

Rock Climbing Photo: The start is marked by the purple arrow.
The start is marked by the purple arrow.


Descent:
S slope (class 3) to Loch Leven, then back down the trail to the N Lake campground.

Rock Climbing Photo: S slope descent (many options)
S slope descent (many options)

Protection 

alpine rack, 50-60m rope (optional)
no fixed anything


Photos of Southeast Face (aka the Waterfall Route) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Self portrait at the summit. Perfect day.
Self portrait at the summit. Perfect day.
Rock Climbing Photo: looking back toward N Lake
looking back toward N Lake
Rock Climbing Photo: Turn off the trail at these steps and start workin...
BETA PHOTO: Turn off the trail at these steps and start workin...
Rock Climbing Photo: A lunch with a view.  June 2012
A lunch with a view. June 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: The final ridge to the summit
The final ridge to the summit
Rock Climbing Photo: On the final ridge. Sweet views of the Evolutions ...
On the final ridge. Sweet views of the Evolutions ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The final ridgeline on a summer evening
The final ridgeline on a summer evening
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the rest of the ridge to the summit.  S...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the rest of the ridge to the summit. S...
Rock Climbing Photo: view toward Evolution range
view toward Evolution range
Rock Climbing Photo: less than optimal chimney conditions
less than optimal chimney conditions
Rock Climbing Photo: early season glissade descent
early season glissade descent
Rock Climbing Photo: looking back down the ridgeline
looking back down the ridgeline
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down at Pitch 2 in the chimney section.
Looking down at Pitch 2 in the chimney section.
Rock Climbing Photo: another overview of the route
BETA PHOTO: another overview of the route
Rock Climbing Photo: route and the Piute Crags
BETA PHOTO: route and the Piute Crags
Rock Climbing Photo: 5.4 crux
BETA PHOTO: 5.4 crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave on the first part of the wet season bypass
Dave on the first part of the wet season bypass
Rock Climbing Photo: an ice axe may be helpful in early season in the g...
BETA PHOTO: an ice axe may be helpful in early season in the g...
Rock Climbing Photo: final ridge traverse
final ridge traverse
Rock Climbing Photo: Jascha on the crux
Jascha on the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: summit
summit
Rock Climbing Photo: lower crack
lower crack
Rock Climbing Photo: the rock rib was much more pleasant to descend tha...
BETA PHOTO: the rock rib was much more pleasant to descend tha...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the notch where we gained the ridge....
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the notch where we gained the ridge....

Show All 45 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Southeast Face (aka the Waterfall Route) Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 24, 2015
By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Mar 7, 2012
rating: Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c

A very fun and quick outing! Absolutely stellar, go do it.
By Aerili
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 11, 2012

I think all in all, you do about 1000' of chute hiking combined. It doesn't seem to matter where you cross over, either--just pick an easy spot.

The start and finish more than make up for the less-than-stellar middle section, although I mixed in 4th and 5th class moves in the chutes to make things more interesting.

On the descent, stay as far to skier's left as possible since the ground is most stable there. From above, it often appears you will cliff out many times, but it always goes.
By spyork
From: Fremont, CA
Jul 6, 2012

Climbed on 6/30/12 - The entire chimney was dry. Crossing over the rock rib was a bit confusing. I ended up climbing more 5th class than I had to. The finish on the ridge took more time than it should, I kept trying to go around left or right, but then ended up going over the top. The beta about staying left on the descent was great, thanks Aerili!
By Rude Boy
From: San Francisco, CA
Jul 3, 2013
rating: Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c

Yeah stay left on the descent. I went straight down the gully and it sucked ass for 2500 feet of class 3 down climbing.
By Superclimber
Sep 15, 2013

To find the South Chute descent: continue heading west along the summit ridge after passing the true summit. Watch for the chute on your left (south). It's a little ways past the summit. Once in the chute follow Aerili's advice.

Also, when following the summit ridge after the summit looking for the descent, if you stay too high on the ridge you may get faced with a 20 ft 5th class down climb. Might be better to go down a little bit on the South side as you follow the ridge toward the South Chute.
By Gearoholic
From: Portland, OR
Oct 11, 2013

There was some confusion as to the start of the climb because the two large cracks aren't necessarily visible/obvious from the switchback angle. We hiked up a little further from the switchbacks where the trail was nice and flat, and then we could see the cracks. I've added a beta photo with a big arrow pointing out the start of the climb from the angle we could see from the trail. Going up the talus field was easy compared to some others I've traveled. The climb itself is very doable solo/no rope and is mostly fun scrambling. You can make it easier or more difficult as you ascend. Mostly sturdy rock but there were some loose sections in the shoots. I found some amazing short 5.7 hand cracks (that were exposed but solid) that I couldn't pass up. Did the whole thing in approach shoes - if you have shoes with sticky rubber, leave your climbing shoes at home. The ridgeline was great! Took us 8 hours car to car at an easy pace. Fun day!
By kenr
Jul 24, 2014

Had a lot of fun on it today.
The summit ridge is great, and continued for longer than I expected. The starting moves are interesting, and there's lots of other good gully climbing. And it's worthwhile as routefinding "adventure" out in the middle of this big face -- not sure when's the best time to switch to a different gully, where to get on the ridge, etc.

But it has more drawbacks than some other great Sierra ridge routes: The descent of the south face on sand and scree is not fun at all, and goes on much too long for something that un-fun (like about 2000 vertical feet / 600 meters) -- so maybe I should have tried descending the rock rib instead. The discontinuity in the climbing, with some hiking sections in the middle between the lower chimney and the great summit ridge. The extra 0.5 mile (800m) of flat walking on the road at the beginning and end. Surrounding lakes + mountains not quite as pretty - (but pretty enough).

I think you get more sustained fun for less work on like say Mt Conness, or the Aretes of Crystal Crag Direct near Mammoth Lakes. But Mt Emerson still worthwhile as another fun high Sierra adventure.

Ken
By kenr
Jul 24, 2014

Some statistics ...
  • approach to start of 5th class climbing from official day-visitor Parking:
. . about 2000 vertical feet over 2.5 miles horizontal
. . / ( +600 meters over 4 km distance )

  • start of 5th class climbing to summit
. . about 2000 vertical feet over 0.5 mile horizontal
. . / ( +600 meters over 0.8km distance)

  • summit ridge climbing (including upper descent section NW from summit)
. . about 1100 ft horizontal (330 meters)

  • Total from official Parking to summit
. . about 4000 vertical feet over 3 miles distance
. . / ( +1200 meters over 5km distance )

  • descent on steep sand + scree
. . about 2000 vertical feet over 0.6 mile horizontal
. . / ( 600 vertical meters over 1 km distance )
__________________________________________________________
some GPS latitude longitude (approximate)
  • official day-visitor parking: (N37.2275 W118.6273)
  • trailhead: (N37.2272 W118.6275)
  • leave trail to go NNW up to chimney: (N37.2337 W118.6483)
  • bottom of 5th class chimney: (N37.2360 W118.6498)
  • notch where I joined summit ridge: (N37.2404 W118.6532)
. . (would be interesting to know if could have joined it lower)
  • first gendarme after I joined ridge: (N37.2405 W118.6535)
  • summit: (N37.2425 W118.6542)
__________________________________________________________
By old5ten
From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
Aug 21, 2014
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Fun climb! 12.5 hours CTC for the geriatric corps. 1:45 approach to base; 6.5 for the climb (including lowering some hapless soloist from top of P1 - why solo when you're not up for it?), mostly belaying and simulclimbing, very little soloing; 0:15 for the salami sandwich on top; 3.5 for the full descent.
By rockcarl
From: Durango, CO
Jul 13, 2015
rating: Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c

There was a fixed rope (looked like a 9-10mm lead line) hanging in the very beginning of the chimney 7/12/15, reaching the ground. The chimney was pouring with water so we took the class 3/4 face to the right, and didn't see the top of the rope or the anchor, but another party that passed us claimed to have climbed the waterfall and seen that the rope was tied off to some sort of multi-sling anchor. It had rained the afternoon prior, so maybe it was a bail line left by another party? Anyway, it's still hanging there if anyone wants to claim it. Otherwise I think it's booty for the next party up!
By Jeremy in Inyokern
From: Inyokern
Aug 24, 2015
rating: Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c

Not any harder than Middle Pal 3rd class. Fun if not sustained

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