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BETA PHOTO: Exposed corner traverse.
|2016 Closure on Shirt Tail Peak Effective March 11,2016 MORE INFO >>>|
I was looking for quick lunchtime diversion and noticed the SE Chimney in Levin's guide. I wanted something new and figured the W Face would be busy anyway. When I saw that Levin had labeled this a 2-star adventure route, that was good enough for me. I didn't find the route overly chossy, slick, or dirty (by Eldo standards), although it was licheny due to minimal traffic. As a bonus, it tops out on the summit of Wind Tower.
WARNING: Watch for poison ivy in the warmer months.
Scramble to the top of the left-leaning ramp.
P1 (5.5, 70')
Climb the huecoed chimney to the top.
P2 (5.5, 140')
From the top of the chimney, make some exposed moves out right around the corner until you can start heading up the leftward-trending trough/ramp. Continue until you reach a ledge with a tree.
P3 (5.0, 150')
Head up featured slabs along the SE rib until you reach the more vertical final summit wall.
P4 (5.2' 100')
Head right up the head wall to gain the ridgeline, then on to the summit.
Notes: there are many ways to go up the head wall at a similarly easy grade.
Cross the bridge after the entrance kiosk and follow the trail downstream (NE) along the base of Wind Tower. Immediately after the bouldering zone look for a leftward-trending ramp that leads to a prominent chimney. If you round the corner and can see the gully between Wind Tower and Rotwand, you've gone too far.
Follow slabs north on the east side of summit ridge. Look for a notch to the west just after the rusty cable. Rap or down climb (5.4) to the trail.
I was soloing so not sure about gear.
As of Mar. 2012, there was one old fixed pin on P2 and some sun-bleached slings at the top of the chimney. Otherwise, there is no fixed pro.
BETA PHOTO: Suggested belays.
BETA PHOTO: The start of the route.
Chimney (bucketed face variation to the right is W...
Looking down the chimney.
Looking back to the corner traverse.
A remnant of climbing days of old.
By Gary Hann
From: Coal Creek Canyon,Colorado
Apr 26, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Approached this route via what I believe to be "Hot Toes", 5.7s, from Rossiter's old guidebook. I would have called it SE Chimney Direct, and 5.7s seemed to be the correct rating. The crux is not well-protected! As for the chimney itself, that seemed harder than 5.5. I haven't climbed many chimneys so maybe that is why it seemed harder. I did find good pro in the chimney including two chockstones to sling and some small cam placements. You do have to take the pro when it appears. There is enough pro, but it's not pick and choose. There would have been a good #4 Camalot near the top if I had brought one. The rap slings at the top of the chimney looked like crap, so we did the long traverse to the west along a shelf over to the rap stations. While doing the traverse, I looked back down, and there appears to be a rap station very close to the chimney. Just move out of the grove near the top of the chimney towards the face, and there it is. Couldn't have been more than 20 feet from the top of the chimney. Wish I had seen that when I was down there! This route would make a good first chimney lead but definitely not a good first lead - minus the Hot Toes approach that is.