Type: Trad, 75 ft (23 m)
FA: Dick Williams, Tom Bridges - 1973
Page Views: 1,767 total · 8/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Nov 18, 2006
Admins: Morgan Patterson, RJ B

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Description Suggest change

The beta on this route is a little confusing; the Dick Williams guides variously list one or more pitches. If there is in fact a second pitch, it evidently never gets climbed, judging by the loose rock and lichen. That having been said, Scuttlebutt is definitely a worthwhile climb, especially when the more popular routes are occupied.

A challenging start goes up a face with sparse pro, trending left to a nose. Follow this nose and the face climbing above it to a spacious belay ledge with a pine tree.

Location Suggest change

Scuttlebutt starts about 15' left of Day Tripper corner, and just right of the obvious nose. The popular landmark in this section is Easter Time Too.

Descent: Rap down from the pine tree.

Protection Suggest change

Small to medium gear (nuts, cams, tricams). Build a gear anchor at the top of the pitch. Rap rings are slung on a pine tree at the ledge.

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