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Nabisco Canyon
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chimney TR 
East Wall Crack T,TR 
Left route TR 
Maggie's Farm TR 
Maggie's Traverse 
Pinky Piranha  
Scurf TR 


YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
Page Views: 693
Submitted By: Lance Ranzer on Oct 14, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Readon soloing Scurf. (c) Reardon Collection.


A classic Route.

Starts on the boulder to very good first couple holds, then holds get smaller and crimpier the higher you go. Crux is 3/4 of the way up.


Just left of Maggie's Farm


Top Rope - bolts on top

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By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Dec 14, 2013
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

After the open moves on pretty good jugs there's a pretty darn tough move on small holds - a huge handrail broke off here about 15 years ago. After pulling that move energy reserves are key to completing the route.

Reardon used to solo this one - pretty stunning.
By ClimberGuy26
Aug 26, 2014

By dnaiscool
Apr 27, 2015

The upper 1/4 of this route is the same finish as "Iguana", a 5.11d that once started about six feet left of Scurf. I guess through the years all the key holds on Iguana eroded, which is really unfortunate, because Iguana was a terrific climb...and it .11d..a few notches easier than the route it shared the finish with. Of historical note: Iguana was in long before Scurf, but Maggie's Farm (free) predates both by a decade. Graham Pierce once bolted a lead line left of Iguana, but the bolts were promptly rap bolting at Stoney Point! Not to mention that the rock quality will never sustain tot forces expansion anchors will receive on lead falls...Stoney is a bouldering/TR area...go to Malibu Creek for them leads!
By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Oct 26, 2015
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Did not know that the Iguana finish is no more - I remember it being much more doable than the Scurf finish.

One of my best days at Stoney was top-roping all three from left to right.

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