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Sculpture's Crack Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Sand Blast TR 
Sculpted Crack Left TR 
Sculpture's Crack TR 
Sculpture's Crack Traverse 

Sculpture's Crack Traverse 

Hueco: V1 Font: 5

   
Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V1 Font: 5 [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 3,397
Submitted By: Chris Owen on May 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: Sculpture Traverse: follow the obvious chalk marks...

Description 

Originally started at Sculpture's Crack and headed right - but right to left is better IMHO...

Get up onto the first good hold and then make a tough reachy move (crux) onto the main rail - follow this to Sculpture's Crack, or continue past the Crack to the alcove finish with a strenuous and dicey move left and out of it.

Location 

See Jordan's photo

Protection 

Pad and spotter.


Photos of Sculpture's Crack Traverse Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jake Olson traversing it.
Jake Olson traversing it.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sculpture's Traverse, just past the 2nd crux. Tony...
Sculpture's Traverse, just past the 2nd crux. Tony...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sculpture Crack Traverse, a greasy mess.
Sculpture Crack Traverse, a greasy mess.

Comments on Sculpture's Crack Traverse Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Mar 22, 2010

Picture of Michael Reardon on Sculpture's Traverse here.
By germsauce
May 18, 2011

i'm sorry but v-1 or v-2? my sister lives nearby so i've climbed stoney when visiting from Colorado probably 5-6 times and this is one of my favorite spots (i've yet to see a guidebook).
The starting moves are pretty stout for v-2 and does this traverse go through the awkward beta-intensive moves that go 5-6 feet past the sculpture crack (past the bulge and blind reach)? If so i'd say 3+ at least for the entire traverse right to left.

Thoughts?
also- if anyone knows of a good source beyond MTPrj for stoney point beta please pass it along. i like this place, but feel like i'd love to know more about grades and good spots to climb.
By Rob Gordon
From: Hollywood, CA
May 18, 2011
rating: V3 6A

The best version of the traverse IMO goes from the sit on the right through the bulge to the last hold before the tree, then back right and down into the sit again. I keep falling/slipping on the last move back into the sit, but I reckon it's probably 5.12ish.

The whole thing is pretty beta intensive and pumpy, so it's hard to rate. Don't matter much though. It's a great problem whatever the rating.

Urban Rock by Chris Owen is a pretty accurate guidebook except for a few notable breaks this year.
By coreylee
From: Sacramento, CA
Jul 14, 2011

Germsauce, I just visited your sister and she loved the stoney point. She has great endurance!
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Aug 4, 2011

Thanks for the promo Rob!

Once I use up Ed3 print run I'll do another edition and try and get all of the new stuff.
By Chris Ulibas
Feb 8, 2016

Not easy! V4-v5 IMO. Just came from here February 7th 2016. This was super hard with a lack of foot holds past the crux. Started right and once I got to the top of the crack on the first good hol, I couldn't seem to find any good footing after tha. I think the foot holds must be worn down since it was rated a V1-2. Cant wait to try this again!

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