Scruffy Band WI3
| 1,273 page views Good page? (1 like)  |
| Type: | Trad, Ice |
| Consensus: | WI3 [details] |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Season: | Dead of winter is best |
| Submitted By: | Jeff B on Jan 1, 2002 |
| |
Scruffy Band
Add Photo Printer View
Description Nice route on the granite rocks of Little Cottonwood Canyon. Channel 4 News did a story on ice climbing here in 2001 with us.
Protection Two pitches, first pitch is very easy, WI 2-3. Second pitch ends with a 15 foot pillar. Descent is best rappelling off trees.
Toprope Protection Half way up the route there are pitons in the rock for toproping.
Scruffy on 6 Jan 2013
| Can be thin in the middle of the first pitch...
| Final pillar pitch from the fat tree belay (and st...
| playing on Scruffy band
| | |
By Nick Storm From: Lander, WY Jan 18, 2007
| Thanks for the info. I am going to assume that one 60m rope can safely get from tree to tree on the rappel...is this true? Happy climbing. |
By Brian in SLC From: Salt Lake City, UT Jan 16, 2008
| I've done it from the lower tree standard rappel (upper tree is the anchor for the final top out, kind of on the left side of the upper tier) with a single 70 meter rope, and it think we used most all of it. We rappelled from the upper tree last night with 2 70's, and, seemed like we had 40 or so feet of rope left over (meaning the upper tree rap would eat up all of two 60m ropes, methinks). The lower tree is really only around 50 or so feet below the upper tree. I noticed a single bolt anchor with a sling on it below the huge roof that you'd rappel from the lower tree, so, that "might" be an option with a single 60. Seems like most of the tree-ish stuff you rappel by is bushy, and, not as substantial for a rap anchor. Looking at a picture I have of the route, I don't see any big enough trees for a decent anchor. A single 60 "might" put you atop that snowy ramp which "might" be ok to down climb (its icy right now, but, might be thin). Safer would be a pair of ropes... |
By bsmoot Jan 18, 2008
| You can also hike off to the East if you don't want to rap. |
By Stymingersfink Feb 26, 2008
| two 60m ropes will get you all the to the ground from either tree. a single 70M rope will get you to the lower ramp from the lower tree, with a short (20') downclimb over WI2+ ice to reach the ground. a 70M rope from the upper tree will barely get you to the lower ramp, with about a 25' downclimb. |
By Skat B From: Down Rodeo Jan 22, 2013 rating: WI3
| Pretty easy route! I just wanted to throw out some info regarding the condition of the anchors on the first ledge on the right. The pitons aren't going anywhere for a long, long time (5 in total). 3 pitons are tied of with black slings and a cord that are still in good condition but wouldn't hurt to replace. The right two pitons are tied off with a blue sling that is in very good condition. If you are going to the top then ignore this and keep climbing to the top. If you are toproping, then use this ledge. |
|