Scruffy Band Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Scruffy band, central route. Pillar visible.
This is the first main ice climbing area in LCC. It's on the South side of the canyon and consists of one main flow called Scruffy Band (WI-3) right in the center of the granite slabs, and another WI-2 or 3 apron that leads up to an overhang of granite with some impressive curtains and pillars of ice ("Hanging Pillar" WI5-6). There are a handful of other routes right next to these main two, but they rarely come in thick. Usually very thin routes. The time of year this ice comes in varies greatly from year to year. Usually by Christmas the main line is in thick enough for good screw placements. Since it's at a lower altitude, the ice often comes in sporadically, especially during warm winters. Getting around to the top of these routes to top rope wouldn't be very easy so it's a good beginner area as long as you have someone that can lead the routes. Once someone leads them, then you can top rope very easily. There are some pitons about half way up Scruffy Band for good tope roping.
You can park at the bus stop at the mouth of the canyon and cross the road, or park at the head of the Temple Quarry Nature Trail. It's just south of the junction of Highways 209 and 210. From this parking area, follow the nature trail until you find a tangent that drops down into the creek (don't worry, I've never seen water in the creek). There is a trail up the opposite bank that goes straight up to the ice. Approach time is about 20-30 minutes.
Climbing Season For the Little Cottonwood Canyon area.
Weather station 3.1 miles from here
7 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Scruffy Band
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Scruffy Band:
Featured Route For Scruffy Band
: Wasatch Range
: ... : Scruffy Band
Belay just left of the Dagger. P1- Diagonal right, up mixed rock and ice to a leftward slanting ramp. Ascend this (mostly ice) to a screw belay on the thicker ice above.P2- Climb the rolling ice to a belay at a small tree in a gully. The climb continues from here, but the ice and snow are very low angle.Descend by making a 60m rappel off of a small, questionable tree to the west. ...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
By Mark Regier
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 17, 2007
As of January '07, there is plenty of water in the creek, and as of 1/17, the water is flowing on top of the ice, forming a beautiful but insubstantial turquoise slush. Walk the nature trail until you see the first long, brown bench on your left. Enter a shallow gully on your right, and head to the creek. My partner and I re-located a small downed tree to facilitate our own crossing.
By Dave Burny
From: buffalo, ny
Feb 8, 2014
looking for a partner...hey guys, gonna be in Utah next week, looking for a parnter(s)...I am bringing all but rope and screws...email firstname.lastname@example.org or call 716-400-2436 if you are upto the call of duty...