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Scruffy Band

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Contact Gully T 
Not My Fault 
Scruffy Band T 
Scruffy Band Left 
Scruffy Band Right T 
Table Scraps 
Upper Dagger T 
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Scruffy Band Rock Climbing 

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Page Views: 4,452
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jeff B on Mar 31, 2003

70° | 47°

73° | 53°

62° | 48°

61° | 45°

68° | 47°

69° | 49°
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BETA PHOTO: Scruffy band, central route. Pillar visible.


This is the first main ice climbing area in LCC. It's on the South side of the canyon and consists of one main flow called Scruffy Band (WI-3) right in the center of the granite slabs, and another WI-2 or 3 apron that leads up to an overhang of granite with some impressive curtains and pillars of ice ("Hanging Pillar" WI5-6). There are a handful of other routes right next to these main two, but they rarely come in thick. Usually very thin routes. The time of year this ice comes in varies greatly from year to year. Usually by Christmas the main line is in thick enough for good screw placements. Since it's at a lower altitude, the ice often comes in sporadically, especially during warm winters. Getting around to the top of these routes to top rope wouldn't be very easy so it's a good beginner area as long as you have someone that can lead the routes. Once someone leads them, then you can top rope very easily. There are some pitons about half way up Scruffy Band for good tope roping.

Getting There 

You can park at the bus stop at the mouth of the canyon and cross the road, or park at the head of the Temple Quarry Nature Trail. It's just south of the junction of Highways 209 and 210. From this parking area, follow the nature trail until you find a tangent that drops down into the creek (don't worry, I've never seen water in the creek). There is a trail up the opposite bank that goes straight up to the ice. Approach time is about 20-30 minutes.

Climbing Season

For the Little Cottonwood Canyon area.

Weather station 3.1 miles from here

7 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Scruffy Band

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Scruffy Band:
Scruffy Band   WI3     Trad, Ice   
Scruffy Band Left   WI3-4     Ice, 1 pitch, 240'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Scruffy Band

Featured Route For Scruffy Band
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber on the Scruffy Right, near the bottom of t...

Scruffy Band Right WI3  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Scruffy Band
Thinner and consequently less likely to form than the standard Scruffy Band. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Comments on Scruffy Band Add Comment
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By Mark Regier
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 17, 2007
As of January '07, there is plenty of water in the creek, and as of 1/17, the water is flowing on top of the ice, forming a beautiful but insubstantial turquoise slush. Walk the nature trail until you see the first long, brown bench on your left. Enter a shallow gully on your right, and head to the creek. My partner and I re-located a small downed tree to facilitate our own crossing.
By Dave Burny
From: buffalo, ny
Feb 8, 2014
looking for a partner...hey guys, gonna be in Utah next week, looking for a parnter(s)...I am bringing all but rope and or call 716-400-2436 if you are upto the call of duty...
pura vida,

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