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The North West Territories
Routes Sorted
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Angry Itch, The S 
Approaching Armageddon  T 
B-B-Bubbas link-up S 
B-b-buttress S 
Beerless Leader T 
California Chrome S 
Hard Times S 
Hocus Focus S 
Like Old Times S 
Paper Wafer T 
Plate Tectonics S 
Primitive Times  T 
Scrubbing Bubbas S 

Scrubbing Bubbas 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jim Shimberg 2001
Page Views: 517
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 25, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Jakob scoping out the dark, angling seam of [[1067...

Private Property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

I'm trying to picture the route clean and dry to find it more appealing. But that's not how I experienced it, and that's the typical state of it. But here's how it is.

Behind a big boulder leaning on a tree find a mossy, normally wet corner with two visible bolts on a slightly steep face. Climb the corner laying back crimping and stemming. The crux is pulling out of the corner on to a slab. It's pretty tough. I ended up with a finger lock and a handjam when pulling the crux bulge. After pulling the crux climb fun lichen covered slab till you hit the clean corners on the upper 1/3 of the climb this section is classic (these corners were what made me want to do the route). Fun and interesting climbing mostly on cracks leads to a final slab romp to the anchors.

Over all, I wouldn'tgo out of your way to do the first half but if you started on bb-b-butress and finished on the upper half of this it would be fantastic!

Location 

Just right of B-b-butress 5.9. Starting behind the leaning boulder.

Protection 

10 bolts to anchors.


Photos of Scrubbing Bubbas Slideshow Add Photo
Jakob loving the top half of <a href='/v/scrubbing-bubbas/106775808'>Scrubbing Bubbas</a>. <a href='/v/b-b-buttress/106147475'>B-b-buttress</a> on the left.
Jakob loving the top half of Scrubbing Bubbas. [[1061...

Comments on Scrubbing Bubbas Add Comment
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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 12, 2010

I sent this one today and rerated it as 5.11a. i did the simplest beta i could find and it felt quite hard at its previous grade...
weigh in on the grade if youve done it...
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 12, 2010

oh, one more thing, i gave it 2 stars cause the top deserved 4 and the bottom is a bomb so i went down the middle... i wish the whole thing was as clean as the top...
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Sep 14, 2010

The first two clips feel easy 10ish but pulling above the overhang definitely felt 11ish. Maybe I'm missing something there. Teach me Jim! :) A fun link-up would be running it's neighbor to the left into the top of half of this. B-b-bubbas?
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Feb 3, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The bottom part was wet when I did it and I missed the onsight.
I first thought I missed the onsight because it was wet but I soon realized that the crux was way stiffer than 10b.
After working the crux a bit, I would say 10d and not 11a. You just got to be efficient doing the moves.
Definitely not harder than Sargent Schultz 10d at Triple Corners.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Feb 3, 2014

might be a style thing schultz was pretty cruiser for me... welp, there are all kinds of climbers out there... keeps it fun :)
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Feb 5, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

You are so right Lee about the style thing... Perfectly Blunt 10d is another one that I found harder than Scrubbing Bubbas.
By S. Neoh
Feb 6, 2014

I've never been on Bubbas but I've been on Schultz and Perfectly Blunt. I thought both were so much harder than say, Waimea the climb or Dirty Dozen, both .10d. Even "cheating" on Perfectly Blunt by going right after the last draw was desperate for me.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Feb 8, 2014

ive done perfectly blunt a few times, when i do it right it feels 5.10+ when i mix up my beta it feels 5.12 haha...