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rappel into a basketboat!
This is an extension to Peanut Butter & Jelly.
Pitch 1 5.8 (60 ft) - Climb Peanut Butter and Jelly
Pitch 2 5.10c (70 ft) - The Classic Pitch! From the anchor in the cave at the top of PB&J climb on tuffa features out the cave where is narrows down to about 4 ft wide and pull on to the face of the wall and continue up.
Pitch 2 5.10a (30 ft) - climb up the shallow corner and up to a sloping belay ledge
Pitch 3 5.10a (70 ft) - climb up the slab to the left and up some steeper climbing to the anchors.
I recommend linking pitch 3 and 4 and lowering to the anchor at the top of pitch 3 to belay the second.
Difficult back clipping will be required to get back to the anchor on top of P1.
From the bottom of the cave in the center of Slo Pony Wall to the cave on the top of Slo Pony Wall.
P1 10 bolts, P2 13 bolts, P3 6 bolts, P4 10 bolts.
Anja and Ken on Screw loose.
Looking down from mid way up P1 of screw loose.
Views of Ha Long Bay from Screw loose.
Starts in the cave marked by the green arrow, easi...
tiger beach in the background
By greg t
From: Chevy, Silverado
Aug 2, 2012
One of my favorite climbs of all time! The name comes from the first ascentionists ( eric and matt of slo pony ) forgetting the wrench, climbing and wrapping off loose bolts. Was proud to be the 3rd ascent of this, after they went back to tighten the bolts. Tiger Beach is a great place to get kicked off of.. but I guess you had to be there.
Feb 2, 2013
I recommend linking up pitch 2 and 3. Conserve draws (bolts are often within reach of each other).
Mar 30, 2015
Pitch 2 coming out of the cave is incredibly fun and really exposed-feeling. Link Pitch 2 and 3 and back clean as you go up as the previous commenter said. From the top of the climb, you can rap down to the Pitch 2 anchors (the ones you might have skipped) with a 70m. From there, you can rap down to the water with a 70m and on to your boat if the tide is right and you weigh enough for there to be rope stretch. It's close though!