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 ADVANCED
Shagg Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Agro Shagg S 
Block Buster S 
Cell Block D S 
Continental Divide T 
Cut Split and Delivered S 
Death to the Queen S 
Deja Voodoo S 
Diesel S 
Diesel Bob S 
Fat Bastard S 
Fat Pig S 
Fuzzy Rhino Slippers  S 
Ginseng Route S 
Great Escape, The S 
Grimas De Oro 
It Ain't Pretty Being Easy S 
Kick to the Teeth S 
Late for Dinner S 
Long and Short of It, The S 
Looney Tunes S 
Loopy Noodle Butt Conspiracy S 
Meltdown S 
Nice Tooth S 
Patches the Clown S 
Pushes Little Daisies S 
Raging Bull, The 
Recombinant DNA S 
Rhino Flake T 
Ritual , The S 
Rough Rhino S 
Screw It S 
Shagg It  S 
Shagg Zag S 
Shaggin Wagon S 
Short Bob S 
Short Shagg S 
Sour Diesel S 
Standard Route T 
Summer Smoke S 
Tightrope S 
Two Shaved Heads S 
Unitard S 
Unknown Name S 
Velvet Elvis S 
What About Bob? S 
What About Bobcat S 
When the fat lady sings S 
Zagg Shagg S 
Unsorted Routes:

Screw It 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Jim Ewing
Page Views: 728
Submitted By: chris deulen on Mar 29, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

One of the few great endurance routes at Shagg, and one of 4 that start on The Great Escape. To reduce rope drag, skip the clip on the flake of Shagg It, or bring a full length sling. This makes the next section (where the gray rock meets the schist) a bit creepy, albeit safe with a good belay. There are a couple of hard moves before a good hold can be acquired to clip off of after this section. After rounding the corner, finish by climbing into Shagg Zag by either down climbing a bit and unclipping to reduce drag again, or merely skip it and prepare for a ride if the juice isn't there to make it through this endurance crux. All in all, a great newer route that needs to see more traffic, and could use another brushing or two. Thanks Jim Ewing for putting this up. Two stars for the complexity of the lead.

Protection 

Make sure you know what you're doing before you get into this thing!


Comments on Screw It Add Comment
Show which comments
By Lanky
From: Portland, ME
Apr 8, 2009

# of bolts? Chains at the top? Where does it finish? Thanks for adding the route, but this description needs a little more detail.
By corson
From: Northport, Me.
Apr 18, 2009

Start on Great escape, At second bolt veer up and left like you were going to climb Shagg It, after first crux of Shagg It, bust right again through a steep ( roof? ) section into Zagg Shagg below its RP crux, finish to Zagg Shaggs anchors. I have not climbed this yet but it looks FULL VALUE!
By chris deulen
From: Merriam, Kansas
Jun 10, 2009

While I don't have the number of bolts, I feel my description is adequate (though I will try to add a picture as soon as I can). It should be implied that the route finishes on Zag Shagg and that a number of slings is needed. Even if there are chains at the top, that shouldn't effect the amount of gear you bring. Someone may have removed them since this post. Someone may have added them. Most climbing areas I've been to don't have chains, and the ones that do are priviledged. Descriptions should not be used as a form of protection or as a crutch to common sense. Bring enough gear, find the route, then use your own discretion.
By Lanky
From: Portland, ME
Jun 15, 2009

Chris,

Sorry if I came across as abrupt or rude. Not my intent. I agree with all you say w/r/t descriptions not being a substitute for common sense. My comment here was probably misplaced - I just got used to the spoon-feeding.

Thanks again for adding the route.
By chris deulen
From: Merriam, Kansas
Jul 1, 2009

No worries! Climb on.