Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
North Face of Pitchoff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arm & Hammer 
Central Pillar of Pitchoff 
Eye of the Needle 
Harlot 
Moss Ghyl 
Screw and Climaxe 
Sticks in Stones T 
Tendonitis 
Weeping Winds 

Screw and Climaxe 

WI3+

   
Type:  Ice, 350'
Consensus: WI3-4 [details]
FA: Al Long, Al Rubin, and Dave Hoffman 2/75
Page Views: 1,566
Submitted By: Kevin Zagorda on Aug 25, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Pitch one of Screw and Climaxe from the base

Description 

Another long moderate route. The first pitch is a low angled calf burner to a belay in the trees on the right. Move left from the belay to reach a headwall that leads to the trees.

Location 

Walk past Weeping Winds to the next large line of ice.

Protection 

Double ropes recommended for the rap.


Photos of Screw and Climaxe Slideshow Add Photo
The final steep section at the top of Screw and Climaxe.
The final steep section at the top of Screw and Cl...

Comments on Screw and Climaxe Add Comment
Show which comments
By Eriks Rozners
From: Binghamton, NY
Feb 10, 2012
rating: WI3-4

CONDITION REPORT 
The route is hard for the grade in current conditions (climbed 2/4/12). The first pitch is thin and has almost no rest stops for giving break to calves - horrible calve burner. The second pitch is fat, but the exit is very funky. Steep pillars on both sides, but to reach the rap anchors you have to scramble over verglas, frozen turf and do some tree hugging. Scary exit on lead.
By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Feb 18, 2013
rating: WI4- PG13

There are many different lines possible here... maybe up to 6 or so if the ice is fat enough. On some of the variations rock pro may be helpful. Typically thin down low and better toward the top. Some of the finishes are good grade 4 and some are more 3+ish. Plan your route from the bottom so you don't get stranded without a belay. If you climb the right side you can make it to a birch belay with a 60m rope.