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Screamweaver Area
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Screamweaver 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Kris Kline
Season: Fall, Winter, Spring
Page Views: 1,994
Submitted By: gneiss pirate on Feb 8, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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The end of the finger crack on Screamweaver at Rum...

Description 

Worth the effort, If you can figure out the bouldery start. From the pedastel, launch into the thin seam crack with great pro to a bolt. Mantel the move at the bolt. Load up on whatever gear you can for the finish.
Option 1. Move right on easier ground for the original finish.
Option 2. Move left then climb just right of the arete.
Option 3. Fire straight up on fierce and powerful crimps.

There is a 2 bolt anchor at the top that serves all 3 options.


Location 

50 ft to the right of Southern Boys. Starts on a pedastel beneath an obvious seam/crack.


Protection 

small to medium stoppers, a selection of tcus, camalots to red



Photos of Screamweaver Slideshow Add Photo
Dave Sharrot negotiating the mantel move.
Dave Sharrot negotiating the mantel move.
6 year old Una Jones on top rope above the nice crack of Screamweaver.
6 year old Una Jones on top rope above the nice cr...
Comments on Screamweaver Add Comment
Show which comments
By esingleton
Jan 30, 2012

AMAZING LINE! Direct finish is the way to go for sure!

By Abel Jones
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 4, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Direct finish felt 12a for sure, maybe it was just the size of the holds you're on relative to the runout above gear.

By rock_fencer
From: Columbia, SC
Jul 8, 2013
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

^ direct finish is distinctly harder than the original finish which cuts out right. You will take log some flight time if you blow it as there is not really any gear after the big horizontal until you top out on the ledge