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The Bookmark
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel, The T 
Backflip T 
Bellyflop T,S 
Between The Sheets T 
Bookmark OW T 
Cave Route T 
Coleman's Complex T 
Crack of No Return T 
Dead in Bed T 
East Side T 
Fall Out T 
Fantasy Ridge T 
Goose, The T,S 
Inside Straight T 
Joy and Tribulation T 
Klingon (with direct start) T 
Manhole Cover T 
Marginal Line T 
Original Fantasy Ridge T 
Penis Chimney T 
Plan A T 
Rhythm Method T 
Romulan Territory T 
Screamin' Eagles S 
Seams Like A Dream T 
Sojourn T 
Son of a Pitch T 
Star Trek T 
Time Machine T 
Twiggy's Crack T 
Virgin Spring T 
Wigglin' Fingies T 
Unsorted Routes:

Screamin' Eagles 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Eli Helmuth
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,117
Submitted By: Eli Helmuth on Apr 25, 2006

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Lynn Hill at the first bolt on Wigglin. Screamin'...

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Description 

Getting past the first and third bolts could be the crux - a bit of a long reach at the first bolt. Very interesting holds, great position, and outstanding orange granite make this a different style from your typical Lumpy outing. On the FA, I climbed the runout but easy (dirty) face on the left edge of the arete above the route. One could also step far right at the ledge and finish on the last three bolts of Wigglin' (12a) for a bit more action.

Location 

Start 15" left of Wigglin' Fingies on the east face of Bookmark Pinnacle. Rappel or lower off the two-bolt anchor on Wigglin' -20m.

Protection 

Small cams can be helpful to reach the first bolt and 1 or 2 cams in the 2" range above the bolts to protect the runout finish to the anchors on Wigglin'.


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Third bolt crux on Screamin'.
Third bolt crux on Screamin'.

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