Screamin' Eagles 5.12a/b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a/b [details] |
| FA: | Eli Helmuth |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Eli Helmuth on Apr 25, 2006 |
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Lynn Hill at the first bolt on Wigglin. Screamin'...
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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation.
Alligator Rock is also closed.
www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Getting past the first and third bolts could be the crux - a bit of a long reach at the first bolt. Very interesting holds, great position, and outstanding orange granite make this a different style from your typical Lumpy outing. On the FA, I climbed the runout but easy (dirty) face on the left edge of the arete above the route. One could also step far right at the ledge and finish on the last three bolts of Wigglin' (12a) for a bit more action.
Location Start 15" left of Wigglin' Fingies on the east face of Bookmark Pinnacle. Rappel or lower off the two-bolt anchor on Wigglin' -20m.
Protection Small cams can be helpful to reach the first bolt and 1 or 2 cams in the 2" range above the bolts to protect the runout finish to the anchors on Wigglin'.
Third bolt crux on Screamin'.
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