Screamer Crack 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Nick Brash |
| Submitted By: | Brian Adzima on Apr 23, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: Screamer Crack
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Description I had one #4 camalot and my buddy had a second. Neither of use had any experience on wider cracks, but we both remembered reading something about "walking cams." We managed to convince ourselves that we could get a few #3s in then walk the #4s the last 1/4 of the route. Twenty feet up the #3s were tipped out, so I started walking the cams. Things were going well I got pink tricam in and maybe another small piece. The climbing up and down was getting old, but it was working. Then the #4s tipped out...
I made it to the top without incident, a week later a buddy proved the name apt. Offwidth technique is not a must, but it would probably make things easier.
Location Screamer crack is located about 100 feet right of Super crack and about 100 feet left of the chimney (Mommas Squeeze box).
BETA PHOTO: Abigail on Screamer Crack. You can see part of Mus...
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| Comments on Screamer Crack |
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By Dave West
From: Roanoke, VA
Sep 17, 2008
| FA by the notorious Nick Brash |
By MPuser10840
Administrator
From: Erlangen, Germany
Sep 8, 2010
rating: 5.8
| This is a fun crack which I would recommend doing if you've got huge gear. I'm planning a trip to Vedauwoo, so I happened to have 2 BD #6 Camalots, 2 BD #5 Camalots, and 2 BD #4 Camalots. I used them all in the 80 ft. of climbing. The cool thing about this is that it's not a brute strength route, nor is it particularly uncomfortable or awkward. I think that there's a small section of layback up higher, but what worked for me is stemming through the area that's as slick as grease from everybody laybacking. If you keep your eyes open to the possibilities this climb lends, you should have no problem. Please make an effort to use good footwork on this and other routes to preserve our limited resources. Make conscious, thought-out movements which won't scuff up the rock and people will be able to enjoy this route for years to come. |
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