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Anteater - West
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Holding Out For a Hero T 
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Velveeta TR 

Scream Cheese 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dan and Pat Sperlock, 1989
Page Views: 10,762
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jun 18, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (190)
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Tyler Wheeler gets vertical on Scream Cheese.

Description 

This climb goes up the prow next to Swiss Cheese. It has a fun mix of jugs, face, and slab climbing. There is a nocticeable runout half way up the route, but the holds are good. Rap the route from chains on top. Probably one of the best 5.9 sport climbs at the City.

Protection 

Bolts, chain anchor at top.


Photos of Scream Cheese Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ron Long hucking another lap on Scream Cheese.
Ron Long hucking another lap on Scream Cheese.
Rock Climbing Photo: great shot by dottie cross.
great shot by dottie cross.
Rock Climbing Photo: Scream Cheese 5.9
Scream Cheese 5.9
Rock Climbing Photo: Felicia Terry - August '05  Photo by Sandy Draus
Felicia Terry - August '05 Photo by Sandy Draus
Rock Climbing Photo: Sandy Draus (left) and Felica Terry (right) gettin...
Sandy Draus (left) and Felica Terry (right) gettin...
Rock Climbing Photo: "Scream Cheese". Photo by Blitzo.
"Scream Cheese". Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: A wide shot of Anteater, you can see Bath Rock in ...
A wide shot of Anteater, you can see Bath Rock in ...
Rock Climbing Photo: En route to the second clip. Great exposure and a ...
En route to the second clip. Great exposure and a ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Scream Cheese in the morning .9
Scream Cheese in the morning .9
Rock Climbing Photo: Departing storm...
Departing storm...
Rock Climbing Photo: Scream Cheese - late 80's
Scream Cheese - late 80's
Rock Climbing Photo: John on Scream Cheese
John on Scream Cheese
Rock Climbing Photo: Dude Tring Scream Cheese
Dude Tring Scream Cheese
Rock Climbing Photo: My wife hitting the sweet spot after styling the o...
My wife hitting the sweet spot after styling the o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Heading into the slab section
Heading into the slab section

Comments on Scream Cheese Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bob Bland
Aug 16, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is a superb route at City of Rocks, one of my favorites. It has great holds and sequences, culminating in a surprizing little "change of pace" friction crux near the top. Bolt placements are excellent, and the rappel anchors are right on top of Swiss Cheese. All bolts.
By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
Jun 27, 2005

There is now a second set of chains at the top exclusively for this route.
By Jared Hargrave
From: Salt Lake City, UT.
Aug 16, 2006

I led this route and felt that it was a pretty soft 5.9. My partner, who never top-roped a 5.9 before, thought it was easier than Delay of Game! However, the mid-route runout did freak me out a bit and I had to stop to make sure I didn't miss a bolt. Overall a fun climb and good for the first-time 5.9 climber.
By Tyler King
From: Salt Lake, UT
Jul 16, 2008
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Great route. I didn't even notice the runout (and believe me I notice runouts). It must have been that after all the friction climbing and trad climbing the holds were so positive (and it is bolted!) it was no big deal. My crux was getting on to the slab. I just needed to high step to the last good hold and balance up. After that small pockets make it a very easy slab.
By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 27, 2010

No cooler 5.9 sport route. Yes run outs between 3 and 4 but the holds are great. the crux is getting off all those big chicken heads that have spoiled you onto the whimpering slab section. But one or two tricky moves of that and the going gets good. fun fun, great combo with Skyline. Consider a belay anchor at the bottom as the stance is a little exposed.
By ben orton
Aug 18, 2013

This climb is not as run out as lots of city classics and each time I have climbed it I have never felt there was a safety issues as I always felt the route was very well enginered and I have never thought a fall in between 3 rd and 4 th bolt a problem. But as there is a small scoop below the third bolt I watched my friend peel off today about 8 feet above the 3rd bolt and take a good 16 foot drop before the rope even caught perhaps a bit less as I took in as much rope as I could. Where I always imagined the route was steep enough to provide a safe fall on the run out I realized that the scoop will stop u before the rope will resulting in two broken ankles and one piggy back ride to parking lot rock parking. Freak accident in all accounts I dont know if would happen again. But I share this so people can be aware there is a danger factor on this route easy to miss. One that I had never considered. Please climb safe and take this into account. All the same this route is one of my city faves and should be climbed.
By Daniel Nelson
From: Jackson, WY
Oct 29, 2013

Fantastic - great location/view. Great variety of climbing. Slab on top not as runout as many other slab finishes in the City. Hit up this on your way back to the lot after doing Skyline for an amazing morning of climbing.

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