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 ADVANCED
Lower Security Risk
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Agony and Ecstasy, The 
Central Insecurity 
Ecstasy of the People 
Eldo of the People 
Enema of the People 
Enemy of the People 
Men Are From Mars 
Prism 
Scraping By 
Security Risk 

Scraping By 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jim Erickson, solo
Page Views: 398
Submitted By: Luke Clarke on Apr 18, 2005
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Finishing the crux section. Hand traverse right, s...

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  • Description 

    This route climbs a large, left-facing dihedral at the upper end of Lower Security Risk, about 100 feet north of Security Risk and about 30 feet north of the prominent dihedral that is The Prism.A bolted sport route, Eldo Of The People, climbs burly overhangs just to the right of this route.Begin at a large block separated from the main wall by about three inches. Place one or two large cams in that fracture and hand traverse right.Stand up when you can reach an undercling with your left hand. Use that to get a bomber hand jam with your right.This is a fairly strenuous stance with the gear at your feet so a ground fall might be possible if you blow the next placement (#1 Camalot locks in nicely) but once you make it, the next move around the corner gets you to easy ground immediately.The rest of the dihedral looked pointless so I cut right at a crack in the arete to join the aforementioned sport route for a couple of bolts and climbed to the anchor on The Prism. Otherwise the route is not much more than a boulder problem.Rossiter's topo rates the first crux and the moves past the bolts both at 10a, which seemed about right.


    Protection 

    Two cams three inches or larger, one hand sized cam (#1 or #2 Camalot) one or two smaller cams and two draws for recommended variation.



    Photos of Scraping By Slideshow Add Photo
    CM on the opening moves.
    CM on the opening moves.
    Linking up to the arete moves of Eldo of the People. The original Scraping By continued up the corner left of Luke.
    Linking up to the arete moves of Eldo of the Peopl...
    Scraping by....
    Scraping by....
    Clipping the 2nd bolt on the arete. The bolts are on the right of the arete, but the climbing is on the left. The anchors for Prism and Scraping By are above the left side of the large roof above Luke. Eldo of the People cuts out right through the large roof to a bolt right of center at the very top of the photo.
    Clipping the 2nd bolt on the arete. The bolts are ...
    Setting up for the mantle.
    Setting up for the mantle.
    Comments on Scraping By Add Comment
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    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Littleton
    Jul 14, 2011
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

    The interesting moves on this one don't last long, but they are fun. I found a #2 Camalot best to protect the crux move to the left after standing up on the block. A #1 seemed a bit small.

    By Dougald MacDonald
    Apr 15, 2012

    Cutting right to the bolted arÍte after the low crux makes this quite a fun and worthy route.